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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Help\s+with\s+shop\s+procedures\s*$/: 9 ]

Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: Steve Shipley <shiples@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 19:02:53 -0700; I just bought a 1989 Bronco that was on Ebay. It's a 351W with EFI. The plan is to use it for parts for my 1955 Ford F-100. But I'd like to get it running right before pulling the engine and scrappin; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00029.html (7,078 bytes)
2. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 09:01:15 -0400; I don't have a leak-down tester. What I've done is get a plastic (nylon?) hose barb to pipe thread adapter-fitting. Attach a short length of air hose with a quick connect at the other end of short ai; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00034.html (8,459 bytes)
3. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 09:36:22 -0400; You can buy a hose & fitting with the correct thread at most auto places. They're intended to pressurize the cylinder for "real time" valve stem seal or spring replacement. I still think the whole Fr; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00036.html (7,416 bytes)
4. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 10:04:56 -0400; I'm sure you can. But I had the nylon fitting and a piece of air hose and the disconnect already... And it works well enough I haven't been tempted to buy ( BUY? oh the horror...!) the real-deal. Er; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00038.html (7,528 bytes)
5. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: "john niolon" <jniolon@bham.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 09:38:28 -0500; not to take anything away from this group... they've helped me hundreds of times... but let me offer you another option since we are both members of the F-100 brotherhood... check out www.ford-truck; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00040.html (6,967 bytes)
6. RE: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 11:51:41 -0700; Here are instructions for how to do this yourself, using an old propane or refrigerant bottle and dry ice : http://vettenet.org/acfaq.txt Scroll down to item 14) or so. Randall; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00041.html (7,400 bytes)
7. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 16:57:09 -0500; I had to discharge the A/C on my van to replace the heater core. The local shop pumped it out and once I had the new heater core installed, I went back to the same shop where they charged the system; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00042.html (7,758 bytes)
8. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 17:00:57 -0500; The hose on my compression tester has a quick disconnect in it so you don't have to turn the whole guage while threading it into the head. It just so happens that this disconnect is the same as used; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00043.html (8,394 bytes)
9. Re: Help with shop procedures (score: 1): Author: Steve Shipley <shiples@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:58:56 -0700; I took your advice and have been reading ford-trucks. They had all of the specific mechanical procedures that I needed but shop-talk, specifically Randall, had better information on air conditioning.; /html/shop-talk/2006-04/msg00059.html (8,677 bytes)

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