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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Hub\s+Nut\s*$/: 10 ]

Total 10 documents matching your query.

1. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 09:19:35 +0100; When you say "too thick" do you mean the outside diameter won't go in the wire wheel hub? Seems like impact and possibly 3/4" drive sockets may be like that and you have to get a 'thinwall' 1 5/16".; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00000.html (6,752 bytes)
2. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>; Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 09:32:25 -0600; I think I heard on this list that snap-on ones work as well. Craftsman ones do not though IIRC. -- Andrew; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00001.html (7,902 bytes)
3. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 16:07:07 +0100; Perhaps I should have said that the OD of mine is 1.73" and fits fine, but the ID of the hub is a better measurement when you are looking for a socket to fit. I keep meaning to measure the ID of my h; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00002.html (7,119 bytes)
4. RE: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk@mossmotors.com>; Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 09:59:08 -0700; Okay, okay, okay, okay. How did you guys know that I was thinking about this last night and didn't do anything about it!! When I did the brake job on my ww 1970 a couple of months ago I had to go hun; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00004.html (8,354 bytes)
5. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "David F. Darby" <darby@tri-lakes.net>; Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 14:46:57 -0500; I bought a Snap-On 1-5/16" for this job when I found my standard sockets wouldn't fit. That was some years ago, and I almost have the socket paid off. ;-) The Snap-On socket I bought measures 1.738"; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00005.html (6,959 bytes)
6. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: Bee Jay U <yd3@nvc.net>; Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 16:35:14 -0500; Craftsman ones do not though IIRC. <<<snip>>> The new ones may not, but the old ones, 70s and earlier, should. Craftsman beefed up all of their tools in the 80s probably to cut guarentee replacement; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00011.html (6,889 bytes)
7. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "bjshov8" <bjshov8@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 21:53:01 -0500; Buy a cheap socket and turn it down. If you buy a new socket and turn it down, you lose the warranty anyway. By turn it down, I think you could do that with a bench grinder if you are careful.; /html/mgs/2006-09/msg00016.html (6,947 bytes)
8. Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: MICHAEL JONES <jonesmp@prodigy.net>; Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 17:07:45 -0700 (PDT); Started on a brake job for my "C" today and wanted to remove everything including the backing plate for cleaning and painting. I thought that I had a socket to remove the hub nut, since I had removed; /html/mgs/2006-08/msg00400.html (6,718 bytes)
9. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>; Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 19:21:56 -0600; Got mine at ACE hardware IIRC... (1 5/16) Andrew; /html/mgs/2006-08/msg00401.html (6,796 bytes)
10. Re: Hub Nut (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <max_heim@sbcglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 19:31:40 -0700; Yeah, the trick is you need to find a thinwall 1-5/16. Some are thinner than others. You could turn yours down on a lathe, if you had one. Probably just take yours around to various hardware stores,; /html/mgs/2006-08/msg00402.html (6,945 bytes)

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