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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Jb\s+weld\s*$/: 16 ]

Total 16 documents matching your query.

1. JB Weld (score: 1): Author: "Larry list account" <list@marketvalue.net>; Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 06:47:32 -0600; Besides the speed of the cure, what's the difference between JB Weld Quick and JB Weld? I always thought the "Quick" was the preferred product; and the "Slow" was for jobs that might require more fid; /html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00091.html (7,036 bytes)
2. RE: JB Weld (score: 1): Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>; Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 06:37:59 -0700; JB Quick isn't nearly as strong as JB Weld. Randall; /html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00092.html (6,518 bytes)
3. Re: JB Weld (score: 1): Author: David Cavanaugh <cavanadd@kendra.com>; Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:58:39 -0700; With epoxy, generally the slower the cure, the stronger the adhesive. I have also heard on the motorcycle lists that JB Quick is not fuel resistant, while I know from experience that regular JB Weld; /html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00093.html (6,831 bytes)
4. Re: JB Weld (score: 1): Author: pethier@isd.net; Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 23:36:05 -0500; Must be. I have had JB Weld on one of my Europa fuel tanks for about a decade now. Phil Ethier; /html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00096.html (6,640 bytes)
5. Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Conrad" <conrad@conrad.uk.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:44:39 -0000; Hi all. I'm not exactly sure what is on topic in here, appologies if this is not. I am converting a car (a lotus) from carbs to fuel injection. The throttle bodies I'm using have a slightly diffeeren; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00064.html (8,035 bytes)
6. Re: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Mark J. Andy" <marka@telerama.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:45:26 -0500 (EST); I'd be worried about the two materials having different heat expansion characteristics and the JBWeld coming out. This happened with an intake manifold I JB Welded a crack in once... Is there a reas; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00065.html (8,547 bytes)
7. Re: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Jim & Nadia Higgins" <seamus@iwaynet.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:52:26 -0500; Instead of messing with the JB Weld, I would suggest using threaded rod or, if you want a harder grade, adding threads to a long bolt so that it bottoms in the hole. You could then cut the bolt off; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00066.html (8,899 bytes)
8. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: <Tim.Mullen@trw.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 12:07:49 -0500; This probably wouldn't work very well with a Lotus aluminum head with the integral cast intake "manifolds" (runners, etc.). The only two reasonable options would be to make an adapter plate, of weld; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00067.html (8,084 bytes)
9. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Conrad" <conrad@conrad.uk.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 17:11:54 -0000; Only that its not something I can do myself (which is always my prefered option). Cheers, Conrad /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try /// http://www.team.net/ma; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00068.html (7,550 bytes)
10. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 09:35:06 -0800; I believe it's exactly on-topic here. JB Weld will take threads, but they aren't very strong. However, I'd be surprised if you can tap a hole that is half in aluminum and half in JB Weld. Since the; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00069.html (9,028 bytes)
11. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Mark J. Andy" <marka@telerama.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:26:31 -0500 (EST); Devcon used to make some aluminum epoxy that we used to use for emergency repairs to motorcycle engines... If I were gonna go this route, I think I'd try that over jbweld. Though I think I'd try har; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00071.html (7,892 bytes)
12. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Conrad" <conrad@conrad.uk.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 18:12:28 -0000; Actually it's a separate 907/912 type manifold. I have lots of them so can afford to scrap a few trying to do this. Yep, that seems to be the consensus. I'd rather try to do it somehow without weldi; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00072.html (8,148 bytes)
13. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: David Scheidt <dmschei@attglobal.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:26:44 -0500; This has been my experience with trying to do this with epoxies. I've never tried this in Al, but I've tried in steel and cast iron, and it doesn't work. You either need to go oversize, or fill and; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00073.html (7,982 bytes)
14. Re: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: Mike Lee - Team Banana Racing <mikel@ichips.intel.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:27:52 -0800; This may or may not help... A few years ago, I repaired a stripped insert which holds the rear trailing arm on a 914. I found something called "Fix-a-thread" (I think, made by Loctite) at a NAPA auto; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00074.html (7,899 bytes)
15. Re: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "Neil" <neil@sherry02.freeserve.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:09:25 -0000; Why not bore out the holes in the position where they are wanted (would need setting up on a mill or sturdy drilling machine) to provide oversize round holes in the right place, then bush back down f; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00075.html (8,622 bytes)
16. RE: Jb weld (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 18:33:36 -0500; Conrad, et al. You might want to try the rod (AL) that you can work with a propane touch. Here's an old link. I haven't checked it lately. http://durafix.com/ - 3 in 1 rod - welding with propane torc; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00076.html (7,916 bytes)

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