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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*LBC\s+question\s+\(no\s+one\s+unsubscribe\,\s+please\)\s*$/: 14 ]

Total 14 documents matching your query.

1. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 18:11:06 +1000
Good shocks, a sway bar, good shocks, and oh did I mention good shocks? My bugeye also has a 3/4" saw bar, short 510lb springs, wedges at the rear, panhard rod. I'm happy with the result but then I h
/html/spridgets/1999-07/msg00002.html (9,955 bytes)

2. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Lancer7676@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 09:27:30 EDT
<< wedge the reat leafs to lower ith back end. >> In wedging the reat (sic) leaf springs to lower the back end, I have seen kits available from Mini Mania and others that seem over-priced for no more
/html/spridgets/1999-07/msg00012.html (7,926 bytes)

3. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 16:47:59 -0400
David I used a steel wedge and a square "U" bolt I picked up at a marine supply (Boaters World) for about $5 a pair. They were for a boat trailer. The wedge was part of a road grader blade, I have a
/html/spridgets/1999-07/msg00032.html (8,751 bytes)

4. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Lancer7676@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 20:43:30 EDT
<< I used a steel wedge >> So you gave your Sprite a "wedgie"??? Seriously, any reason to not use a steel block instead of a wedge? Wouldnt a wedge tend to slip out of position due to the angle of th
/html/spridgets/1999-07/msg00057.html (7,767 bytes)

5. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 12:42:57 +1000
My wedge solution is based on a bit of rectangular alloy bar (1/4" thick and the same width as the spring (1.5" I think). Simply cut a piece about 1.5 " long and apply to a grinding wheel so as to pr
/html/spridgets/1999-07/msg00064.html (9,429 bytes)

6. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: "Larry & Sandi Miller" <millerls@ado13.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 09:25:13 -0700
If I remember correctly there is a locating peg on the bottom leaf that fits in a hole in the spring mount. This keeps the spring located correctly fore and aft. If you put a wedge under the lower le
/html/spridgets/1999-07/msg00090.html (10,870 bytes)

7. LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Ron Soave <soavero@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 19:49:45 -0700 (PDT)
Ok, after cat-and-mousing the whole way home with a CRX si today (victoriously, I may add), it is obvious my Bugeye is now too fast for its suspension. In order of instant-bang-for-the-buck benefit,
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01454.html (7,843 bytes)

8. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: "Guy" <Guy@weller-lakes.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 06:59:46 +0100
Depends where you start from, but assuming everything stock, then go for a thicker sway bar and poly bushes I put the 5/8" bar off my 1500 midget on my 1275 sprite, and bought a thicker 3/4" bar for
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01460.html (8,908 bytes)

9. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: HFC <froggi@cdsnet.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 00:14:23 -0700
Front sway bar and competition springs work great. I'm running a 7/8" bar, solid mount and 520 springs (which lowered the front of the car 1 1/2"). We also lowered the read of the car nearly 2". My
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01461.html (8,831 bytes)

10. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: LBCarNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 06:51:45 EDT
The biggest bang for the buck on my Bugeye was the installation of a panhard rod. Next best was rebuilt shocks all around. Regards, Peter S.
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01464.html (7,810 bytes)

11. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 08:17:05 -0700 (PDT)
* stock sway bar (cheap used) * 340lbs/in front springs, 1" lower * rebuilt slightly stiffer shocks * Panhard bar I think I would do all these before I'd get bigger wheels and tires. Ulix __/__,__ __
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01481.html (8,966 bytes)

12. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 17:50:20 -0400
Ron Larger sway bar. But keep it around 5/8 or 3/4", 7/8 is a bit thick for the road. Lower the susspension, new front springs, wedge the reat leafs to lower ith back end. See Peter for shocks. I per
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01507.html (8,806 bytes)

13. RE: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: "Elliott, Patrick" <patrick.elliott@attws.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 15:02:48 -0700
"wedge the reat leafs to lower ith back end. " Speaking of lowering the rear. I'm not real happy with how high my MKII's rear sits. Can we please revisit the correct procedure to lower the back end o
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01510.html (8,272 bytes)

14. Re: LBC question (no one unsubscribe, please) (score: 1)
Author: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 18:17:58 -0400
Hey the "R" is next to the "T" and I have big fingers. Sorry. I don't know where that "H" came from. -- Frank Clarici Toms River, NJ Bugeye Sprite 67 Sprite 59 A40 http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut/
/html/spridgets/1999-06/msg01512.html (8,951 bytes)


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