- 1. New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 06:49:13 -0800
- Hey, I'm the new guy to the list. My true love is British motorcycles, but my daily driver(s) have been a '69 MGB and a '74 TR6. It's the latter to which I turn to you for direction... What is the be
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00235.html (8,343 bytes)
- 2. RE: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:15:14 +0100
- Welcome to the list John I always use the one side other side method. I would not recommend jacking it up under the diff, though tempting, the diff mountings are too weak anyways and tend to shear ou
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00237.html (9,490 bytes)
- 3. RE: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 09:21:29 -0700
- I use the side to side method with a floor jack. However, I have wooden blocks which are not quite as high as my floor jacks to ensure a more gradual "bending" of the chassis as it goes up on the st
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00241.html (8,493 bytes)
- 4. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 11:44:14 EST
- << What is the best way to jack up the rear end of the TR6 when you want both chassis rails on 'stands? I have used the jack directly on the differential, but I am concerned that I am putting excess
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00245.html (8,087 bytes)
- 5. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 09:51:29 -0700
- I would'nt recommend either of these places to jack a tr6. They were not designed to take that sort of load (especially the sway bar). I would recommend the chassis cross bar at the front, and the ch
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00249.html (9,072 bytes)
- 6. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 10:33:37 -0800 (PST)
- I used a big board (4x4- 3 1/2" thick) to span the gap between the chassis rails when jacking my TR4. Be aware that the rear of the chassis is different and I was also missing my muffler at the time!
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00259.html (8,641 bytes)
- 7. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 13:28:19 -0700
- My 71 TR6 suffers from the same door gap problem. The trailing edge of the door fits very well at the bottom but there is a large (1/2 inch) gap at the top. Does anyone know the cause and the solutio
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00272.html (8,179 bytes)
- 8. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 22:25:33 EST
- << or should I move to the "one-side, then the other-side" method? Second question is much more involved. The car has about zero body rot, but I still have a solid gap between the door and the rear b
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00290.html (9,452 bytes)
- 9. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 11:10:41 -0500
- Hello and welcome. I would echo Jacks statements. I have seen several unrestored solid original cars and they never had good gaps at this area. Its probably a good way to tell if a car has been resto
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00313.html (10,192 bytes)
- 10. Re: New lister; have a question on TR6. (score: 1)
- Author: Unknown
- Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 07:51:57 +0100charset="iso-8859-1"
- On the ability to close the door/B post gap by jacking the car, I have recently bought a 1968 Herald 13/60 convertible at a house clearance auction. Before I decided whether to bid/how much to bid, I
- /html/triumphs/1998-04/msg00366.html (8,540 bytes)
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