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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Oil\s+Leak\s*$/: 9 ]

Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. oil leak (score: 1): Author: Walton Smith <waltonps@yahoo.com>; Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:39:50 -0800 (PST); Recently in my quest for the Holy Grail of MG ownership, I as so many others before me was foolish attempting to achieve a non oil leaking TD. I purchased a spin-on oil filter adapter which replicate; /html/mg-t/2002-11/msg00023.html (7,657 bytes)
2. Re: oil leak (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 19:57:30 -0500; I installed one of Bob Gruneau's adapters on a TD for a friend (not my car) and agree with you about workmanship. Fit was excellent. Even though we re-used the copper gaskets, the connections did no; /html/mg-t/2002-11/msg00027.html (8,561 bytes)
3. Re: oil leak (score: 1): Author: "Peter Thiel" <pthiel@QuixNet.net>; Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 21:51:09 -0500; Hi Walton, A followup question for you: were you using the stock oil pressure guage to read your pressure, and/or did you confirm that with another guage? If you're really running that high a pressur; /html/mg-t/2002-11/msg00028.html (6,864 bytes)
4. Oil Leak (score: 1): Author: Stuart Keen <simbafish@home.com>; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:38:29 -0500; I'd appreciate some advice on fixing a front oil leak on a 1951 MGTD. I've been going through a qt of oil every 1000 miles. Though this concerned me, everyone said not to worry, that this was "normal; /html/mg-t/2000-12/msg00016.html (8,440 bytes)
5. RE: Oil Leak (score: 1): Author: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@mn.mediaone.net>; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 18:14:13 -0600; It's entirely possible that your oil leak is fairly simply and easily solved. The original seal used an asbestos-impregnated rope. A length was placed in the groove in the oil pan and another in the; /html/mg-t/2000-12/msg00018.html (11,288 bytes)
6. Re: Oil Leak (score: 1): Author: "C. Knight" <cliffknight@ic24.net>; Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 00:28:36 +0000; Stuart The seal is held by the timing cover and the sump and runs on the boss of the crankshaft pulley. The original was a rope seal (still supplied in the UK kits) that worked tolerably well. The re; /html/mg-t/2000-12/msg00023.html (8,212 bytes)
7. RE: Oil Leak (score: 1): Author: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@mn.mediaone.net>; Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:45:45 -0600; I have the box in which the rope seal was packaged. The large number stamped on the flap of the box is JV730. That's probably the NAPA part number. There is also a sticker with a UPC code. That numb; /html/mg-t/2000-12/msg00025.html (7,309 bytes)
8. FW: Oil Leak (score: 1): Author: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@mn.mediaone.net>; Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:50:14 -0600; One more thing. I've been working on my PB too much recently, and I forgot the details of the TD engine. Cliff Knight correctly pointed out that the sealing surface is on the crank pulley, not on th; /html/mg-t/2000-12/msg00026.html (7,892 bytes)
9. Re: Oil Leak (score: 1): Author: "John T. Seim" <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:41:58 -0800; The lip seal used is 36mm x 47mm x 7mm. Chicago Rawhide part number 14005. Use an oil resistant RTV like Ultra-Blue, in the recessed areas of the timing cover and the oil pan. Replacement of the seal; /html/mg-t/2000-12/msg00027.html (7,649 bytes)

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