As all the newbies on the list know (and hi to all of you and to all of you learned folks, too), doing anything the first time is hard. Yesterday, on the way home with my SO in my '76B, the clutch MC
Bill, I haven't done one of those, but did do the dual MC on my A. Pretty straight forward job. IMHO definately a home repair job. BTW, this is where learning to shift without a clutch comes in handy
Rebuilding the clutch m/c is pretty simple as there are few moving parts and it's pretty easy to see what to do when you take it apart. The hardest part is taking the m/c out and putting it back in.
Well Bill, I think in this case I can help you better. The MC can be removed as per a good manual - I used the haynes manual. After you have taken out the cylinder it either can be refurbished or you
<< Yesterday, on the way home with my SO in my '76B, the clutch MC blew. Made it home in 3rd through the 10 mph streets where I live. An interesting experience planning my movements for turns 150 yar
Author: Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 12:13:05 -0400
Wow Bill, sorry to hear that. I missed the earlier post. Most of what Allen said is pretty close to accurate. (bet he looked it up on the web ;-) One thing I learned from Reg. You can bleed the slave
No biggie... it's a tight squeeze in there with the brake MC, you may want to pull the whole box with both MCs just for access (of course, that means even more bleeding later). Do you have large fing
There's plenty of good replies on this, so I won't do a bunch of detail. One little tip: The hardest part of this job is getting the fluid line screwed back in to the new master (or slave cyl, or wh
I disagree with this. If the bore is in good shape, the cylinder can be rebuilt in 5 minutes for the price of a sandwich. -- Trevor Boicey, P. Eng. Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca ICQ #17432933 http:
Author: James Nazarian Jr <James.Nazarian@Colorado.EDU>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 14:38:04 -0600 (MDT)
I'm sure I'm gonna get flamed for this, but I have rebuild both the clutch and brake MCs in the car. I happened to know that the bore was fine so I gutted them with the bodies still installed in the
rebuild - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Could be, Trevor. The rebuilt MC for my Midget was so inexpensive that I didn't even consider rebuilding the one in the car. Plus, the reservoir on the one tha
The shop manual proceecure for replacing cylinder cups, be it master, brake, or clutch, is to lubricate the seal with brake fluid. I try to avoid this as it leaves brake fluid on the top of the seal
Am I missing something here? Doesn't the cylinder, during its normal operation, allow the contact of brake fluid with the piston and the walls of the cylinder? Why on earth would coating those surfa
Lawrie and listers. The problem I have encountered is in that portion of a piston which is NOT CONTINUOUSLY immersed in brake fluid. This includes drum brake pistons which are supposedly never actual
I have no argument with using brake grease - although I have found it isn't compatible with silicone brake fluid. When the system is to be filled with silicon fluid, I always use s.f. as an assembly
Hi Blake, If the seals in all cylinders didn't leak a bit, you'd never have to top up the brake master cylinder. It's not a perfect world and there are no perfect seals. Don't worry about the small s
As others have said do the slave as well and replace the flex. It's a pity you can't flush the pipes with the old m/c but failing that tip some clean fluid in the new m/c and flush the system then. T