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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Rear\s+hub\s+removal\s*$/: 12 ]

Total 12 documents matching your query.

1. Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:10:36 EST
I am pulling all of the hubs off of the bugeye to install 7/16 studs. Front to sweat. I have the rear drum and axels off. Now what to do for that big nut? What tool do you guys use? I may have to go
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00664.html (7,155 bytes)

2. RE: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:29:46 -0500
Big channel locks work but so does a hammer and chisel. Or a really big Dan Walters '63 Sprite '74 Midget Brick NJ I am pulling all of the hubs off of the bugeye to install 7/16 studs. Front to sweat
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00667.html (7,942 bytes)

3. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:04:32 -0600
Kinda makes you wish they could have picked one size to work on the end of the crankshaft, the diff pinion, steering wheel, and the rear hub, doesn't it? At least they used world wide standards for a
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00668.html (7,365 bytes)

4. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:59:58 -0800 (PST)
The correct big socket is best and easiest, and you can re-torque it properly (way too cold to go to garage at the moment - 1 7/8, I think??). If you have a Farm and Fleet near you, US made socket is
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00669.html (7,758 bytes)

5. Re: Rear Hub Removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 00:03:47 EST
Hello List, My notes say nut is 1 7/8 inch or 1 1/8 Whitworth or 1.860 inches. At least that's what I measured with my dial caliper. The reason I got so picky on the measurement was that I ran into a
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00670.html (7,359 bytes)

6. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 06:08:05 -0600
Also, the nuts are specific to each side. They loosen the way the tire turns whilst moving forward, if I recall correctly.
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00675.html (8,231 bytes)

7. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 12:55:16 -0000
I may be wrong but I think it is the other way round. Logic would suggest that forward motion of the car should tighten, rather than loosen the nuts. Of course if properly torqued and locked with th
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00676.html (8,155 bytes)

8. Fw: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 12:57:51 -0000
I unbolted a steel-jawed bench vice from my work bench and used that as an adjustable wrench for removing and replacing the rear axle nuts. (WT method) They loosen in the opposite direction to the no
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00677.html (7,734 bytes)

9. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 08:50:24 -0600
Thanks for the info, Ron! My vernier caliper agrees on the 1 7/8" for the hub nut, so I guess I will have to get to the Farm and Fleet one of these days and pick one of those up along with the 1 1/8"
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00685.html (7,457 bytes)

10. RE: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 11:10:14 -0500
I have that whole process documented (with pictures) at: http://hpmad.zoy.org/eng/midget_hub.html Regards, cyrille I am pulling all of the hubs off of the bugeye to install 7/16 studs. Front to swea
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00693.html (7,706 bytes)

11. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 12:44:06 EST
They are off, I used a borrowed socket from the farmer up the road. So is there a specific torque setting on reinstall, or does this go by feel? David Oliner
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00697.html (7,061 bytes)

12. Re: Rear hub removal (score: 1)
Author: Unknown
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:00:58 -0800
Great last line!!! Good going! Paul A
/html/spridgets/2003-11/msg00698.html (7,899 bytes)


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