Need some help from the list. I finally got to use my car on a hot day (yesterday in Connecticut) 95+ sunny degrees. Engine temp was very good at idle no load, but it would get hot (220F - 230F) even
I drove a 1977B V8 for several years and this is what I found: LE spoiler was very effective at speed in keeping the water cool, but it needed a bit of aluminum wrapped around the radiator extending
Thanks to Bruce, Jim, Ed, David and Don for the great advice. (I tried to organize the steps from everyone in this email so other listers would have a good single point reference if struggeling with
Thanks to Bruce, Jim, Ed, David and Don for the great advice. (I tried to organize the steps from everyone in this email so other listers would have a good single point reference if struggeling with
I had exactly the same problem. Car ran fine but it got hotter and hotter until fuel boiled in carb. I have through the wing exhaust and air can escape through holes but under bonnet heat was the pr
Further to my previous email...... I have not seen any reliable data on the use of 'water-wetter'. All it does is break down surface tension of the water and this removes a minuscule 'blanket' of mo
Unless your puller is extremely efficient, and I'm sure it is more efficient than the twin pushers on my factory V8, I'd expect to have greater problems at idle with no forced draught then when runni
Just for curiousity, are your headers ceramic coated? I'm also inclined to believe that you don't have enough radiator (& maybe that shroud is blocking airflow). Next time turn on the heater and see
To the best of my knowledge, surfactants (Water Wetter, dish detergent) make a measurable difference. Even though it is just a few molecules thick, the boundary region is critical and can determine w
I run an iron block, ally head Buick 300,9.8:1 CR in my BGT and it runs cool( a matter of opinion) 190' in traffic or on the road, but the radiator is 22" x 19" cross flow, RV8 headers and a 3300 CFM