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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Starting\s+problem\s*$/: 37 ]

Total 37 documents matching your query.

1. Re: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 10:06:15 +0100; Absolutely. The slots in the plate give quite a lot of movement relative to the block, more than enough for any timing adjustments if the clamping plate is positioned correctly on the distributor. It; /html/mgs/2005-05/msg00042.html (7,002 bytes)
2. Re: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul T. Root" <ptroot@iaces.com>; Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 08:09:05 -0500; Back in college with my first 'B. I had it professionally tuned before my cross country trek to California. It had never run better. I had a shakeout trip of a couple hundred miles to pick up a frien; /html/mgs/2005-05/msg00049.html (7,893 bytes)
3. Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels@sbcglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 09:25:47 -0500; I have a friend with a starting problem on his newly acquired 72 BGT. There are 12 volts at the pos terminal on the coil until the starter is engaged -- then all juice is gone until the starter is d; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00320.html (7,873 bytes)
4. Re: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: ATWEDITOR@aol.com; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 10:27:24 EDT; I have a friend with a starting problem on his newly acquired 72 BGT. There are 12 volts at the pos terminal on the coil until the starter is engaged -- then all juice is gone until the starter is di; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00321.html (7,796 bytes)
5. RE: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: "Gosling, Richard B" <Richard.Gosling@atkinsglobal.com>; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 15:36:05 +0100; Sounds to me like there is more resistance than there should be between the battery and the engine. With little or no current being drawn, you see the same voltage at the coil as the battery is givin; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00322.html (8,678 bytes)
6. RE: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: "Councill, David" <dcouncill@msubillings.edu>; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 09:13:21 -0600; I would agree with the bad connection. However, I would focus on three places. The battery terminals, battery ground, and then the connection of the battery cable on the starter post. It would be pru; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00324.html (9,136 bytes)
7. Re: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 16:56:47 +0100; If it was OK at the battery *connector* but not at the fusebox then the probable location of the bad connection is at the starter solenoid. On a 73 the brown wires are on the same stud as the battery; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00325.html (8,255 bytes)
8. Re: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 11:19:04 -0500; Sounds like the ignition is set up for a ballast resistor, but the direct connection (that is provided while cranking) has failed. In a ballast-resistor setup, the coil is built for a lower voltage.; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00326.html (9,398 bytes)
9. Re: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: yd3@nvc.net; Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 12:57:51 -0700; Nobody's mentioned yet that it could be a bad starter (bearings) causing too much drag or a stuck starter drive in the ring gear. Regards, Blake; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00329.html (7,340 bytes)
10. Re: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 15:22:53 +0100; 72 didn't have a ballast resistor. Even with the ballast resistor, and if the direct connection during cranking had failed, you would have some voltage at the coil - I guess about 5 volts - during cr; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00344.html (8,065 bytes)
11. Re: Starting Problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 15:28:09 +0100; That wouldn't cause the voltage at the coil +ve to drop to zero during cranking, much less allow it to crank and start with the coil +ve connected to the battery! -- Original Message --; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00345.html (7,660 bytes)
12. Re: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 18:25:09 -0700; This happened with my daughter's '72 GT just a month ago. It was the ignition switch, which had literally exploded. Or sort of, the bakelite circle containing all the contacts popped out of the switc; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00352.html (9,023 bytes)
13. Re: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 07:52:13 -0400; Keep in mind that the distributor is clamped with one bolt to the plate, and it is the plate that gets moved for adjustment. Its bolt holes are slotted to permit some movement. Once the distributor i; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00359.html (8,175 bytes)
14. RE: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 10:05:33 -0700; I'm afraid I have to disagree with you on that. The single bolt loosens the clamping function of the plate for adjustment. The elongated holes in the plate allow adjustment for fitting the distributo; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00364.html (8,951 bytes)
15. Re: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 19:02:22 -0400; The point of all this is that the distributor should be set into the clamp plate once, then adjustments made of the vernier or the plate itself, as this procedure minimises wear on the soft metal bas; /html/mgs/2005-04/msg00368.html (9,445 bytes)
16. Starting problem (score: 1): Author: "herb lundin" <hlundin@islc.net>; Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 13:32:50 -0700; Occasionally, when I turn the key to start the engine it does not turn over and there is no sound. By turning the key on and off several times the engine finally turns over and starts. Could this be; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00604.html (7,182 bytes)
17. Re: Starting problem (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>; Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:40:34 -0700; This seems to be fairly common. When it happens to me, I thoroughly clean the battery posts and clamps and it goes away for a year or so. YMMV... herb lundin had this to say: -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00664.html (7,634 bytes)
18. starting problem (score: 1): Author: Rick Sinclair <RHSinclair@USWest.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:45:42 -0700; I am having some trouble Starting my '68 MGB. I just converted it from 2 six volts to 1 12, and I flushed the radiator and gapped the plugs. I got some starting fluid, sprayed some in the radiator, a; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01355.html (7,289 bytes)
19. Re: starting problem (score: 1): Author: SheppD@aol.com; Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 18:39:07 EDT; Sprayed starting fluid in the RADIATOR? (Assuming you mean carburetor). I would check the distributor, you may have gotten it wet inside during your radiator (carburetor?) flush job. Check your staic; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01357.html (7,790 bytes)
20. Re: starting problem (score: 1): Author: REwald9535@aol.com; Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:08:26 EDT; So does your MG have some type of water injection? Why would you spray starting fluid into the radiator? In any event if your plugs are wet you have too much gas going in the cylinders. Starting flui; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01360.html (7,917 bytes)

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