- 1. Starting the Engine Work on my 68B (score: 1)
- Author: "Ross Bateman" <ross@rcsa.co.za>
- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:52:05 +0200
- Hi All Over the weekend I tackled the engine on my 68B Roadster. I have tinkered with engines in the past but that was just messing about and was never anything like the complete rebuild I am plannin
- /html/mgs/2003-07/msg00664.html (8,892 bytes)
- 2. Re: Starting the Engine Work on my 68B (score: 1)
- Author: "Paul M." <rowman22001@yahoo.com>
- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 06:31:30 -0700 (PDT)
- I've heard this can cause serious reliability problems, because the cylinder wall can get pretty thin on some blocks. Many people feel that 1950cc's offers most of the torque and more room for relia
- /html/mgs/2003-07/msg00667.html (9,219 bytes)
- 3. Re: Starting the Engine Work on my 68B (score: 1)
- Author: jello@ida.net
- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:31:08 US/Mountain
- This is always the dilema - reliability vs. power. If you really want a daily driver, I wouldn't modify it much, possibly remove the emissions stuff, and make sure you've got the high compression pi
- /html/mgs/2003-07/msg00668.html (10,110 bytes)
- 4. RE:Starting the Engine Work on my 68B (score: 1)
- Author: "Brinkman, Gerardo V" <GB127167@teradata-ncr.com>
- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:16:14 -0400
- by the time you complete your plan of action - the cost will be quite high and there is no guarantee that you'll be able to "blow by hatchbacks". I went this route about 10 years ago and was somewhat
- /html/mgs/2003-07/msg00671.html (8,740 bytes)
- 5. Re: Starting the Engine Work on my 68B (score: 1)
- Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>
- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:14:08 -0700
- At some point your used block and head are going to wind up in the "hot tank", a corrosive dip intended to remove sludge, grease, oil and, yes, paint. I can't imagine painting a block before machinin
- /html/mgs/2003-07/msg00673.html (8,164 bytes)
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