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1. Stud Question (score: 1): Author: "S. Allen" <sallen3663@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 16:34:32 -0400; I snapped off one of the wheel studs on the rear of my 74 1/2 today, (Rostyle rims, not wire) and I was wondering how hard they are to replace as the manual and expoded drawings aren't too clear. Ca; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00255.html (7,348 bytes)
2. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: <mjanacek@snet.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:12:18 -0400; I have wires but am pretty sure they are pressed into the drum from the rear side, similar to US cars, and probably have a spline and head to prevent them from spinning and pulling out when tightenin; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00256.html (8,025 bytes)
3. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 14:14:28 -0700; While you may be able to pop out the broken stud, it's hard to see how you could press in a new one without removing the half axle. But I can't say for sure, I have always had wire wheels. -- Max Hei; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00258.html (7,968 bytes)
4. RE: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: mg-dennis <mg-dennis@mindspring.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:36:04 -0700; If you can fish it in from the back they can be "pressed in" by putting a short sleeve over it and tightening the nut on. A punch and a BFH should pop out the old one. I've never replaced on an MG bu; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00261.html (7,797 bytes)
5. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 16:04:17 -0700; Hey, great concept. I can see how backside clearance would be the critical issue, alright. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires C; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00263.html (7,654 bytes)
6. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@MGAguru.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 18:44:45 -0500; Very easy. Check here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/wheels/wl103.htm Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00268.html (7,502 bytes)
7. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: Eric <eric@erickson.on.net>; Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 09:55:33 +1030; Ahhhhh the FAQ! :-) Thanks Barney - having your "articles" pointed out to me always reassures me that I will probably be able to find an answer there when I need one! Now... gotta get the dog to the; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00269.html (7,796 bytes)
8. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 20:06:57 -0500; No need to press; on most cars with this setup, all you have to do is tap gently on the head once it's in place, just to start the stud, then you use a nut and a lug-wrench to pull it through. -Rock; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00279.html (7,812 bytes)
9. Re: Stud Question (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 09:03:51 +0100; A 74 1/2 should have the Salisbury type axle, and with this you just remove the hub from the half-shaft, which is a much easier proposition than removing the half-shaft. PaulH. Check out the new Brit; /html/mgs/2004-10/msg00281.html (7,694 bytes)
10. stud question (score: 1): Author: Tyson Sherman <tsherman@tecinfo.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 01:03:04 -0500; I was plastiguaging my main bearings today in my B, and when I was removing one of the nuts to the main bearing caps, a stud came out with the nut (along with some very smelly oil - not like regular; /html/mgs/1998-06/msg01153.html (6,896 bytes)

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