Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*U\-Joint\s+replacement\s*$/>

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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*U\-Joint\s+replacement\s*$/: 8 ]

Total 8 documents matching your query.

1. U-Joint replacement (score: 1): Author: DVCameron <dvcameron2@rcn.com>; Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 10:32:12 -0400; Yup. Having some fun replacing my u-joints. Thought I would work on the car and smoke some brisket and port at the same time...both require me to be around the house for a while..... Got the propelle; /html/mgs/2000-08/msg00721.html (6,911 bytes)
2. Re: U-Joint replacement (score: 1): Author: yd3@nvc.net; Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 14:49:25 -0700; This probably isn't the proper way of doing it, but I also had trouble getting U joint apart on a NON LBC. What I did was open up the vise far enough so it would support just the arms of one yoke ho; /html/mgs/2000-08/msg00740.html (6,866 bytes)
3. U-Joint replacement (score: 1): Author: "John A. Walker" <john@rmartin.net>; Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 15:11:35 -0700; Has anybody written a GOOD description of the proper way to replace the U-joints in a 'B'? I have heard that the simple procedure described in the Haynes manual is less than accurate. And since I am; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00456.html (6,743 bytes)
4. Re: U-Joint replacement (score: 1): Author: "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 19:31:31 -0400; John Walker asked: Check out Lindsay Porter's method described and shown in his MGB restoration book. It's really excellent. Rich Chrysler; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00464.html (6,997 bytes)
5. Re: U-Joint replacement (score: 1): Author: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>; Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 01:03:18 -0500; My main bit of advice to supplement your own common sense is to expect to drop some needle bearings or get them crossways, so it's best to work indoors where they won't get lost in leaves or cracks i; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00494.html (7,714 bytes)
6. u-joint replacement (score: 1): Author: G Graham <ggraham@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>; Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:35:22 -0400; Quote from the MGB joke book (Haynes): "... remove the bearing cups by tapping the yoke . . . draw them out with fingers" HA HA HA HA ! These guys slay me! They musta been writers for Seinfeld! -- ^!; /html/mgs/1999-04/msg01221.html (6,353 bytes)
7. RE: U-Joint Replacement (score: 1): Author: thomas_pokrefke@juno.com (Thomas J Pokrefke); Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 14:29:40 EST; Someone made the comment that you had to have a BIG vise to replace the U-joints on the drive shaft. I second that idea. I just had my hand opened up to remove a piece of brass that splintered off th; /html/mgs/1997-02/msg00152.html (6,769 bytes)
8. Re[2]: U-Joint Replacement (score: 1): Author: David_Moore@kaoinfo.com (David Moore); Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 11:56:07 -0500; An another method is to use a c clamp and sockets from your socket set. The socket that pushes the cup has to be smaller in diameter than the cup. The socket on the other side has to large enough to; /html/mgs/1997-02/msg00176.html (7,452 bytes)

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