Just an idea, or silly option. When trying to get the water tower loose, and failing, I'd try making some sort of seal that you dropped in over the thermostat and filing the area with a water/vinegar
Typically the R16 tower becomes 'one with the head' because of corrosion between the long studs and the tower. The coolant isn't (supposed to be) in this area - just steel bolts, aluminum surround,
Don't forget the heat wrenchcarefully heat the bugger with a propane torch, then let it cool. If that doesn't do it, repeat- maybe this time with some sort of penetrant first. Last ditch is to heat i
Try this. Take a 1/16 " drill and carefully drill between the stud and the housing. After drilling out all the rust you can, fill the space with penetrating oil. Heat with a propane torch till the pe
What I had to do to get my water tower off by Richard Hugi: Two busted knuckles, one entire Sunday, 1/2 can Kroll, 6 trips to the auto parts store, three drilled out bolts, four onlookers two differe
A word to the wise. Take that pup off every year or two. Check the thermostat and, most important, clean and grease those studs. keith In a message dated 6/27/2006 3:01:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
I've been of the belief that the problem is electrolysis between the steel studs and the aluminum. I encountered a similar problem once trying to get the fill plug out of the side of the trans (after
I was fortunate that the top of the tower-with some slight alterations was able to be used as the inlet. I applied generous amounts of liquid gasket, found smaller length bolts attached it to the hea
Ha! Flushing brake fluid every year or two is good preventive maintenance, but what other car\model is pulling the thermostat housing a recommended annual ToDo? Mine's held together w/ a wing and a p
to coat the studs with anti-sieze compound. I've been doing that on the U20 thermostat housing for a while now, since it can be stubborn, too. I can't say enough in favor of Anti-sieze. I use it as
I have used the method Kieth outlined with two exceptions: I didn't use a drill, and I used a big rubber mallet. I have removed three this way with no damage, but it took a few days for each. First I
On my Original Owner 68, the front engine hoist bracket was between the tower and the head, and although the head was off making it much easier to manipulate, I was able to pound on this solid steel
How hard would it be to remove the studs and replace with the stainless steel studs? I'd hate to have one snap, but the stainless sounds much better. Also does anyone know the size of the studs? Than
Actually fairly common among cars this vintage and older. Particularly if you were not using anti-freeze. keith In a message dated 6/27/2006 4:56:23 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, ppeters914@comcast.net
On my 67.5 I used bolts instead of studs. I have had no problems over the last 15 years removing the tower. I haven't used any anti-seize, grease, or anything else to keep the bolts from sticking, ex
Make no mistake, as a boat owner, I can tell tell you, after following all the numerous responses concerning using "stainless bolts" into aluminum, it is NOT the PERFECT solution. There can still be
Sorry for the first incomplete post. Developed a sudden case of "Cat on the Keyboard" disease. What we were trying to say is that Pat and others have the right idea of using bolts. Mild steel or sta
Also- modify the lower gasket and cut off the 'ears' where they go around the This way, water that does leak out won't fill the stud cavity, it'll leak out and keep the fasteners dry. And use some so