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Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Scott Seidler" <sseidler@easterndatacomm.com>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:59:39 -0500; Hello Fellow Morganites and Morganettes, I am starting assembly of the wood frame on the +4 (4seat) I have a questions regarding bolts/screws. Forgetting the original set up for the time being - what; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00239.html (8,071 bytes)
2. RE: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Scott Seidler" <sseidler@easterndatacomm.com>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:45:55 -0500; The "Joint" I am refferring to are both the type that are butted against each other and also fitted (finger style joints). Thats about as much as I can think of since I havent tried to piece it toget; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00240.html (9,273 bytes)
3. RE: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" <vandergraaft@aecl.ca>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:49:39 -0500; I've built "space frame," canvas-covered kayaks and used brass screws and brass tacks throughout. I also used a resin-type glue. Thirty years later, these screws and tacks are still holding what the; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00241.html (9,987 bytes)
4. RE: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Scott Seidler" <sseidler@easterndatacomm.com>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:57:01 -0500; I am assuming Im drilling pilot holes ad the coutersnking right? After that will a cordless screwdriver split the wood? I should think it wont if the pilot holes are drilled right. And what about ge; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00242.html (10,564 bytes)
5. RE: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" <vandergraaft@aecl.ca>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:14:38 -0500; Yes, I was assuming that you would be drilling pilot holes but if you use a "normal" drill bit, you end up with a pilot hole with a constant diameter. A properly drilled hole for a countersunk screw; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00244.html (12,898 bytes)
6. Re: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" <Chip.Brown@msdw.com>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:16:57 -0500; The only thing I would add to what Chuck wrote is that you might want to consider using a good waterproof wood glue on the tight joints, with clamps. The only wood work I've done on my Morgan was in; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00245.html (7,810 bytes)
7. RE: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" <vandergraaft@aecl.ca>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 14:06:46 -0500; Yes, a waterproof glue would be a good idea to bond the wood but also the seal up any gaps between the wood pieces so that moisture cannot collect. The whole glue business is an art by itself. Again; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00246.html (9,062 bytes)
8. Re: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 18:52:58 -0500; Scott, With all the answers you've gotten, I haven't seen anyone suggest using T nuts and bolts. If you really want to go the "nut & bolt" road. However, I don't see anything wrong with the plain woo; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00250.html (10,185 bytes)
9. Re: Wood Frame Assembly (score: 1): Author: toad <toad@storm.ca>; Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 19:45:45 -0500; Brethren I have used the Spax screws as offered by Lee Valley and have found them to be excellent. I have been able to twist off screw heads in ash even after having drilled a pilot hole and coating; /html/morgans/2000-03/msg00251.html (10,172 bytes)

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