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Total 42 documents matching your query.

1. Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "James Schulte" <schultejim@msn.com>; Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 09:12:17 -0500; In my 69 C roadster, when driving with my lights on, If I slow down and stop, my lights go dimmer but not out. If I rev the engine or accelerate from a stop, they brighten. The fan belt is tight and; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00018.html (7,247 bytes)
2. RE: Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "Gosling, Richard B" <Richard.Gosling@atkinsglobal.com>; Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 15:36:05 -0000; A few thoughts (which others are welcome to add too, contradict, or whatever!): If the battery can still start your car, the problem ain't the battery. If the bulbs are still bright with the engine; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00019.html (8,686 bytes)
3. Re: Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "S. Allen" <scottallen3663@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 11:46:39 -0500; I'm going to second Richard's thoughts here. I've had a few alts go bad after just a year or so. Go through the alt fault diagnoses in the Bently book to sort it out, (you can do a quick, but not com; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00020.html (8,359 bytes)
4. Re: Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "JustBrits_com" <justbrits@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 10:58:50 -0600; While both you gents could be right, I prefer KISS<G>. Chassis GROUNDS FIRST. Ed; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00021.html (6,791 bytes)
5. Re: Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: Emjaxfl@aol.com; Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 12:19:01 EST; Greetings Jim and all, My headlights were doing the very bright at running rpm and very dim at idle just before the alternator failed. I could also observe the regulator doing its job poorly while ru; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00022.html (7,184 bytes)
6. Re: Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 09:07:46 -0000; While this could well be contributing to both lights being dimmer than they should ("Don't assume that because you have found one problem, you have found the only problem"), the headlights share a gr; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00032.html (7,102 bytes)
7. Re: Electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 16:40:00 -0000; Some brightening when revving with the standard alternator is inevitable, although some high-output aftermarket units are said to give more output at lower revs. Some say that they have converted as; /html/mgs/2005-12/msg00073.html (10,599 bytes)
8. Electrical Problem (score: 1): Author: DMatt21502@aol.com; Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 20:29:43 EST; I have just finished installing a new wiring harness in my 1977 MGB. While troubleshooting it today using a 12 volt charger I was able to get most systems working. Since this car has never run since; /html/mgs/2005-01/msg00169.html (7,052 bytes)
9. RE: Electrical Problem (score: 1): Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>; Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 23:18:34 -0500; Make sure there's nothing near the fans, then disconnect the leads going to the sensor at the top of the radiator and touch them together. This should complete the circuit to power the fans. The sens; /html/mgs/2005-01/msg00171.html (6,877 bytes)
10. Re: Electrical Problem (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 08:57:46 -0000; First the easy one - as another has said with the ignition on bridge the contacts on the sensor in the radiator and the fans should run. Next the easy-ish one - yes the fuel pump should operate with; /html/mgs/2005-01/msg00174.html (7,631 bytes)
11. electrical problem (score: 1): Author: David Councill <dcouncil@imt.net>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 09:17:20 -0700; Can I ask a stupid question? (maybe that was it) Is it possible for a fuse block to go bad? In getting my 72B on the road yesterday, I kept losing my instrumentation - fuel, tach, and temperature. It; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00544.html (8,299 bytes)
12. Re: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 11:46:38 -0600; Funny you should ask that. ;^) My horns quit working during a recent rain. So the next time it's sunny, I start trouble shooting amongst the wiring just behind the grill, figuring wet/corrosion has s; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00546.html (8,131 bytes)
13. Re: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 16:01:03 -0500; Yes. But before you order a new one, remove the old one and be sure that it's quite free of dirt, corrosion, spider webs and such on the back side. Bob On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 09:17:20 -0700 David Counc; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00549.html (7,778 bytes)
14. RE: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@roundaboutmanor.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 19:17:31 -0600; I hate to be contrary, but I have found more often than not that the brass bits are simply riveted on to the fiber block. They work loose, start to corrode, and will lose contact between the male spa; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00552.html (9,347 bytes)
15. Re: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: MGBnutt@aol.com; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 20:54:04 EST; Oh yes, rivets are bad. I regularly solder any of my riveted audio connectors (1/4" phone plugs) so they don't stop working. If not just a mechanically bad connection to begin with then the 2 pieces; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00554.html (8,168 bytes)
16. RE: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: David Councill <dcouncil@imt.net>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 19:03:22 -0700; Unfortunately, I have not only cleaned the fuse block but I have ruled it out as the problem. Whatever the problem is, it has gotten progressively worse. Since the gauges now have only worked briefly; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00556.html (8,901 bytes)
17. RE: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "Bill Miller" <millerb@intergate.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 22:14:06 -0500; I wrote to the list a while back with light problems on my 77B daily driver. (I kept losing parking/running lights) After much tracing and head scratching, I have concluded the problem is at the fus; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00561.html (8,022 bytes)
18. Re: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 21:17:06 -0600; I'm going to have to take my own advice and clean the fuse block and connections. Guess I'll look at the underside of it too. Tonight my horn quit again, on the way to the store. At the store parking; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00562.html (8,334 bytes)
19. RE: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "Bill Miller" <millerb@intergate.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 23:00:36 -0500; works. So I'm a bit stumped. All these systems worked fine Check your hazard switch. The turn signal circuit goes through the hazard switch. That may solve part of your problem....; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00563.html (7,858 bytes)
20. RE: electrical problem (score: 1): Author: "James Nazarian" <jhn3@uakron.edu>; Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 23:51:20 -0500; When the rivets between the fuse holder and the spade connectors wear they become loose and intermittent. I have experienced it on more than one restoration. So yes it does happen and no it isn't a s; /html/mgs/2004-03/msg00567.html (9,318 bytes)

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