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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*floor\s+paint\s*$/: 14 ]

Total 14 documents matching your query.

1. Floor Paint (score: 1): Author: Nickbk@aol.com; Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 22:29:01 -0500; Fellow Shop Residents I have used a product called "Amerlock". It is a 2 stage epoxy paint that can be painted even in damp areas (they use it to paint off shore oil rigs when in place). I've had it; /html/shop-talk/1996-12/msg00011.html (6,965 bytes)
2. Re: Floor Paint (score: 1): Author: Nickbk@aol.com; Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 19:47:49 -0500; << Did you go through the normal etching process before using this stuff? I am building a new garage at present, and although I have no intention of painting that garage floor, I am planning on paint; /html/shop-talk/1996-12/msg00015.html (7,311 bytes)
3. Re: Floor Paint (score: 1): Author: Nickbk@aol.com; Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 19:48:03 -0500; << << a product called "Amerlock". >> Hi Nick, where would you find this stuff?? Terry, in NorCal Too...... >> TerryAmerlock has an 800 number here in Ca that can tell you the nearest dealer. The Ful; /html/shop-talk/1996-12/msg00016.html (7,151 bytes)
4. floor paint (score: 1): Author: mbarre@JUNO.COM (Matt Barre); Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 10:39:47 PST; It never fails. The minute I throw something out that I have been keeping for years, I find a need for it. I must have tossed the info from the performance flooring company I mentioned. Definitely so; /html/shop-talk/1996-12/msg00023.html (7,454 bytes)
5. Re: Floor Paint (score: 1): Author: Nickbk@aol.com; Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 14:00:39 -0500; when <snip> located? RayI did use tsp three times to get all the crud off of the floor. The first floor I did, I did not use any etch product at all on about 18 year old concrete. I then later did a; /html/shop-talk/1996-12/msg00028.html (8,480 bytes)
6. floor paint (score: 1): Author: cak@aratar.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Tue, 9 Jan 96 13:25:21 PST; My local paint supplier tells me that I shouldn't even bother, because the tires will tend to pull up th epaint. But if I insist, he'll sell me a Pratt&Lambert product - a two-part epoxy, roughly $80; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00016.html (7,235 bytes)
7. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: R John Lye <rjl6n@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu>; Date: Tue, 9 Jan 96 17:31:19 EST; I've also heard that's a problem. That sounds relatively cheap. Griot's has some garage floor paint that, as I recall, was a bit more expensive than this - big surprise, eh? They did an article on th; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00017.html (8,226 bytes)
8. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: Mark J Bradakis <mjb@spitfire.cs.utah.edu>; Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 15:37:38 -0700; Yes, epoxy floor paint will end up lifting in the area where your tires rest on it, assuming a car that is driven in and out often. The tires holding up the many year project tend not to go through s; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00018.html (7,389 bytes)
9. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 01:13:08 GMT; For a garage, chlorinated rubber floor paint is pretty good and far cheaper than epoxy. It's what is used to paint yellow "no parking" lines. It resists tyres and oil well. For workshop space, epoxy; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00020.html (7,874 bytes)
10. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: "W. R. Gibbons" <gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu>; Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 00:06:00 -0500 (EST); We discussed floor paint at one point on the british cars list. Roland Dudley had a clever idea; he said the paint used to mark lanes on streets and parking lots stays put--why not paint the garage f; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00021.html (7,667 bytes)
11. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: Nickbk@aol.com; Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 02:14:52 -0500; Chris asks for brand suggestions I have used Fuller O'brien Amerlock paint and have been happy with it so far. It is a 2 part epoxy paint that is supposed to have been used on off shore drilling rigs; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00023.html (8,037 bytes)
12. RE: floor paint (score: 1): Author: Mark J Bradakis <mjb>; Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 10:05:53 -0700; He's only partly right - I just used regular Sherwin-Williams deck paint, but the real trick is (just like painting a car) in the surface preparation. I wrote a longer description of the whole proces; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00026.html (7,950 bytes)
13. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams); Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 20:17:00 +0000; I was thinking about the linoleum/vinyl route when I built mine, but cheaped out with paint instead. The "jackstand problem" could be dealt with by some Masonite or plywood pieces of appropriate siz; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00035.html (7,230 bytes)
14. Re: floor paint (score: 1): Author: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams); Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 20:23:00 +0000; Very slick, but not worth $500, IMHO.; /html/shop-talk/1996-01/msg00036.html (7,350 bytes)

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