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Total 8 documents matching your query.

1. replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: SDOliner@aol.com; Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 12:47:23 EST; I have a Midget hardtop with a one piece wrap around rear window. The window is held in place with a rubber moulding. The slot for the hardtop and the window are offset, so it looks like the rubber g; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00439.html (7,477 bytes)
2. RE: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 12:12:07 -0600; I did one on one of my factory Bugeye hardtops. Slight heat with a propane torch makes it bendable. Too much makes it goo. ;) I have a Midget hardtop with a one piece wrap around rear window. The win; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00441.html (8,143 bytes)
3. Re: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: Billy Zoom <billyzoom@billyzoom.com>; Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 10:10:24 -0800; You'll have to heat it, which means you'll have to find an oven big enough. Then you'll have to make a form covered with felt. Bending Masonite over a wooden frame works well. You put plastic in the; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00442.html (7,826 bytes)
4. Re: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: Billy Zoom <billyzoom@billyzoom.com>; Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 10:20:45 -0800; Ooh...that's crude! At least polish the edges first to reduce the risk of stress cracks. BZ; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00443.html (7,321 bytes)
5. RE: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 12:29:21 -0600; The edges do not need to be polished, just sanded fairly flat, and again touch the edge carefully with a propane torch. It clears up the plastic and looks like a very polished edge. You'll have to he; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00445.html (8,344 bytes)
6. RE: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 12:49:40 -0600; Just going by what Roger Menadue, DMH's right hand man told me, as to how he made all their race & prototype plexi stuff. Good enough for him, good enough for me. Ooh...that's crude! At least polish; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00448.html (7,840 bytes)
7. Re: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: Frank Clarici <spritenut@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 18:17:36 -0500; Be sure to use LEXAN (brand) plexiglass, it is bendable and will not crack. Costs more but it's worth it. Do watch which side faces the sun as it is UV sensitive. It's labeled. A heat gun or propane; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00463.html (7,489 bytes)
8. Re: replacing hardtop rear window (score: 1): Author: "Chris King" <cbking@alum.rpi.edu>; Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 18:20:05 -0800; Any brand of Polycarbonate will work. LEXAN (GE Plastics) is one such brand, Makrolon (by Bayer Plastics) is another. Plexiglass is actually a name brand for acrylic sheet. Polycarbonate is much togh; /html/spridgets/2006-03/msg00469.html (7,966 bytes)

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