Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*timing\s+chain\s*$/>

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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*timing\s+chain\s*$/: 14 ]

Total 14 documents matching your query.

1. timing chain (score: 1): Author: "mitch vamos" <mitchvamos@operamail.com>; Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 00:28:35 +0100; Is the drive side of the timing chain the drivers or passenger side. pretty sure i know but -- _____________________________________________________________ Web-based SMS services available at http:/; /html/6pack/2004-12/msg00232.html (6,402 bytes)
2. timing chain (score: 1): Author: doug shook <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>; Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:04:25 -0700; Hi 6Packers, I apologize for the ignorant question. I am installing a new timing chain and sprockets (a nice German set), but there are no marks on the chain wheels. My Bentley manual says to "align; /html/6pack/2003-07/msg00637.html (7,249 bytes)
3. RE: timing chain (score: 1): Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>; Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:46:12 -0700; There is a very precise method, called camshaft degreeing (detailed in the Comp Prep Manual). For us mere mortals, in the Bentley Manual, procedure 12.41.05 (Engine Assembly), steps 79 to 87 (page 1; /html/6pack/2003-07/msg00638.html (8,050 bytes)
4. Re: timing chain (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 20:12:40 -0700 (PDT); Doug & Bob--I wouldn't go by the mill slot in the cam face just yet. If you don't have a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a means to know where surprisingly accurate. Once you're sure you've got thi; /html/6pack/2003-07/msg00645.html (7,667 bytes)
5. Timing chain (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 09:50:04 -0700; I am trying to degree in a cam and noticed the cam gear has enough play in the bolt holes to move 3degs in either direction. Is this normal. The bolts seem to be standard without a larger than norma; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00340.html (6,628 bytes)
6. Re: Timing chain (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:18:40 -0600; Mitch, yes after repeating the measurement a few time I got something on the order of +/- 2 degrees and was similarly surprised. I sent out a similar post to the list, I think the response was not to; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00388.html (7,040 bytes)
7. Timing chain (score: 1): Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>; Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:34:06 -0700 (PDT); I'm putting in a new timing chain, and have a few questions. Started pulling the front damper assembly. It was coming fine and then came to a halt. I then realized it was coming into contact with the; /html/6pack/2002-06/msg00538.html (8,198 bytes)
8. Re: Timing chain (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:58:53 -0400; I did this job over the winter so maybe I can help. You can move the steering rack enough without removing the steering column and the lower boxed chassis member will not interfere with the damper o; /html/6pack/2002-06/msg00539.html (9,583 bytes)
9. RE: Timing chain (score: 1): Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>; Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:31:30 -0400; Hi Tim. The rack will move out of the way to allow you to get the timing cover and damper off. I had no trouble removing the sprockets. Just pried (prised) them off with a couple of big screwdrivers.; /html/6pack/2002-06/msg00545.html (9,790 bytes)
10. Re: Timing chain (score: 1): Author: "Cris Hemingway" <cris_tr6@hotmail.com>; Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:30:10 -0700; I just did my timing chain and gears this spring. Changing the chain without replacing the gears is a waste of time and money, as the chain will prematurely wear to the "stretched" pitch of the worn; /html/6pack/2002-06/msg00555.html (10,158 bytes)
11. Re: Timing chain (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:56:58 -0700 (PDT); Tim--The rack will have to come forward, as others have written. Remove the pinch bolt at the bottom yolk, und oudt mit der U-bolts. Looks like you already got the new sprockets, so you might as well; /html/6pack/2002-06/msg00557.html (7,387 bytes)
12. timing chain (score: 1): Author: "TIMOTHY VESELY" <trvesely3@msn.com>; Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 10:15:27 -0500; Hi Guys Long time lurker here. I think my timing chain jumped a tooth or two. When 11 and 12 are on the rock 1 and 2 are tight and when 1 and 2 are on the rock 11 and 12 are tight does this sound lik; /html/6pack/2006-08/msg00074.html (6,585 bytes)
13. RE: timing chain (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:39:06 -0700; When 1 and 2 are on the rock, your crank should be at 0 degrees according to your damper timing marks. If you jumped a tooth, you will be off by at least 10 degrees (12 to be precise). Vance Hi Guys; /html/6pack/2006-08/msg00089.html (6,930 bytes)
14. Re: timing chain (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:31:24 -0700; Tim--When these chains jump timing, it's usually from the chain tensioner giving up. The chain should bang around a bit against the timing cover, and you would normally hear this. Since the engine wi; /html/6pack/2006-08/msg00091.html (7,255 bytes)

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