- 1. will not start (score: 1)
- Author: JApple2154@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:10:01 EDT
- OK Guys where do I go first--my project '71 B has been running fine--Last weekend I decided to degrease the engine and under the hood--Used degreaser and a hose--once finished I started the car and l
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00173.html (7,577 bytes)
- 2. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: David Councill <dcouncil@imt.net>
- Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 11:38:58 -0600
- On the starter connections - look for a loose or disconnected wire, the bayonet type connector that connects to a spade on the starter. Not on the main connection but somewhere to the side (to the le
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00174.html (8,058 bytes)
- 3. FW: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk@mossmotors.com>
- Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 11:11:43 -0700
- Apple: Start with the easy stuff from the top side of the engine compartment. 1. Check the starter solenoid relay. It's a silver rectangular can mounted close to the fuse box. It will have a white/re
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00177.html (9,600 bytes)
- 4. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: Betti Ann & Preston Smith <prsmith@ns.sympatico.ca>
- Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 19:25:02 -0300
- I had a similar situation. While troubleshooting, I noted that the hood support on my 80 MGB LE had come disconnected on the fender. It then knocked a wire off the starter relay. Ergo, it would not s
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00199.html (8,375 bytes)
- 5. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: Max Heim <mvheim@attbi.com>
- Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 16:10:53 -0700
- Hmm, I suspect nylock nuts were the problem in the first place. On consideration, I am not sure that they have any legitimate use in automotive applications... on 8/6/02 3:25 PM, Betti Ann & Preston
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00203.html (8,887 bytes)
- 6. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: Betti Ann & Preston Smith <prsmith@ns.sympatico.ca>
- Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 20:49:57 -0300
- You may be right. But when you consider that the hood support is not a stressed part, the nylock should do the job. Now I have to look at any work I have done in the last few years to make sure I di
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00205.html (7,792 bytes)
- 7. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: Max Heim <mvheim@attbi.com>
- Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 17:03:22 -0700
- on 8/6/02 4:49 PM, Betti Ann & Preston Smith at prsmith@ns.sympatico.ca Yeah, I can't blame you there. It "should" have worked... I didn't mean to sound harsh, but someone else was talking about usin
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00206.html (8,516 bytes)
- 8. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: "David Breneman" <idcb@airborne.com>
- Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:35:00 -0700 (PDT)
- Max Heim SEZ - Although there are Grade-8 Nyloc nuts which can provide both. The main application for a Nyloc (or Nylon Insert Locking Nut as it's generically known, speaking as a former employee of
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00237.html (8,339 bytes)
- 9. Re: will not start (score: 1)
- Author: "james" <jamesnazarian@netzero.net>
- Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 11:28:43 -0600
- automotive I like nylocs in areas of little or no heat. In the engine bay and anywhere else the nuts may get hot, I prefer stove bolts. These are the all metal ones that are crimped on the end. You
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00370.html (7,634 bytes)
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