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Total 17 documents matching your query.

1. [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 06:50:09 -0400 a=Za5Z2h6Gp24lUAOq2dOr4Q==:117 a=Za5Z2h6Gp24lUAOq2dOr4Q==:17 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=zTVDa7HKqxcA:10 a=doupyKFmAAAA:8 a=r77TgQKjGQsHNAKrUKIA:9 a=9iDbn-4jx3cA:10 a=cKsnjEOsc; Ib d like to replace my TR4A steering column rubber (rag) U-joint with a metal U-joint much the TR6 uses. Is there a racing supplier who sells these and can someone point me in the right direction wi; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00022.html (8,970 bytes)
2. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: SCOTT JANZEN <sjanzen@me.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 07:49:33 -0400; I use the all metal racing u joints Pegasus sells. Don't have a part number but all you need is the shaft diameter and the number of splines. Might have to grind a flat in the shaft for the lock scre; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00023.html (10,268 bytes)
3. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 07:58:49 -0400; Good morning. Pegasus has Borgeson needle bearing u-joints. The size is 9/16 x 36 spline, PN 1492-32, for British cars, as per their catalog. Around $80. Great quality and very rugged. I'm sure Won H; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00024.html (10,782 bytes)
4. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:11:55 -0500; The Borgeson u-joints are the way to go. One thing to be very cognizant of with these - unlike the stock U-Joints, the don't do a through pinch bolt with an interference fit - they use a big set scre; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00025.html (12,414 bytes)
5. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 11:42:54 -0400; Tony, it's not a bad idea to drill and tap a hole on the other side of the U-joint from the set screw and put another set screw in. Loctite never hurts too. Bill -- Original Message -- From: "Tony Dr; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00026.html (13,490 bytes)
6. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: Greg And Alison Blake <ablake2@austin.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:53:18 -0500; To add to Tony's recommendations add that bolt to your prerace checklist. That is a very important setscrew. with these - unlike the stock U-Joints, the don't do a through pinch bolt with an interfer; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00027.html (13,977 bytes)
7. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: gt6steve@aol.com; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 12:03:58 -0400 (EDT); I just did this on the Jag so I have over two feet of the solid double D shaft and about 15" of the DD tube available for folks doing the conversion. To add to Tony's recommendations add that bolt to; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00028.html (14,738 bytes)
8. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "R. John Lye" <rjl@gt-classics.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 12:09:35 -0400; I'm not an engineer, but I was taught that you never want set screws across from each other - then you are just riding on the small tips of the set screws.B If you want to add another set screw, it s; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00029.html (15,633 bytes)
9. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 11:00:28 -0600; Replace the set screws with bolts drilled for loc wire. Also , I place a split collar on the steering shaft in front of the hanger bearing or firewall. Should the bolt ever go awal, shaft can not com; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00030.html (15,581 bytes)
10. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: triosan@gmail.com <triosan@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:14:21 -0700 (PDT); Amen to Tony G comment. Mine separated coming out of a high speed sweeper in Spokane. Lucky for me i drifted up an embankment and was able to stop with no damage except to pride. Sent on the new Spri; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00031.html (15,545 bytes)
11. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: Bruce Lapierre <fasttr4@aol.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 13:45:47 -0400 (EDT); Now that's definitely the way to go Replace the set screws with bolts drilled for loc wire. Also , I place a split collar on the steering shaft in front of the hanger bearing or firewall. Should the; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00032.html (16,178 bytes)
12. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 14:43:49 -0400; Good point. I'm working on a flail mower and the set screws are 90 degrees apart on the large drive sprocket. I stand corrected. Thanks, Bill -- Original Message -- From: "R. John Lye" <rjl@gt-classi; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00033.html (16,064 bytes)
13. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 19:50:43 -0400 a=Za5Z2h6Gp24lUAOq2dOr4Q==:117 a=Za5Z2h6Gp24lUAOq2dOr4Q==:17 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=zTVDa7HKqxcA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=doupyKFmAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=JcvzPq48AAAA:8 a=; Wow, great discussion and lots of good information, thanks all. JVV Ib d like to replace my TR4A steering column rubber (rag) U-joint with a metal U-joint much the TR6 uses. Is there a racing supplie; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00034.html (10,213 bytes)
14. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 16:51:24 -0700; I agree, for what little that is worth. But I might be tempted to find a way to pin it in place rather than relying on a set screw and Loctite. It's no damn fun to lose your steering even at low spe; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00035.html (9,276 bytes)
15. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: Bob Kramer <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 18:55:30 -0500; I use a spare lower TR6 joint for the top one. Sent from my iPhone way to pin it in place rather than relying on a set screw can't quite imagine having it happen on a track! http://autox.team.net/mai; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00036.html (10,354 bytes)
16. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 20:53:24 -0400; Bob, did you install a Heim joint or similar to support the shaft? I'm thinking about getting rid of the rag joint myself. Thanks, Bill -- Original Message -- From: "Bob Kramer" <rkramer3@austin.rr.c; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00037.html (11,938 bytes)
17. Re: [Fot] Solid U-Joint (score: 1): Author: <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 11:51:18 +0000; The steering column is supported under the dash. I used a solid clamp mount with rubber inserts to replace the flimsy stock clamp that used felt. The shaft is self supported under the hood by the str; /html/fot/2014-07/msg00039.html (12,835 bytes)

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