My old Schumacher battery charger has been dead for years. Used to be able to go to the factory for new diodes, fixed inexpensively while I waited, but they moved away. I'd like to repair it with bet
I'd have to spend some time with a catalog to figure out what you've got, but diodes definitely are polarity sensitive. That's pretty much the definition of a diode. An ideal diode passes current wit
Any diode tough enough to be used in a battery charger will not be damaged by an ohm-meter, so you can figure out the polarity that way. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph St
label orientation, the pair on Are you familiar with a circuit diagram for a diode bridge? Most likely that is what you are looking at here. mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop
That's interesting. I have an old Schumacher charger with very similar, if not identical, ratings; but it only uses two diodes. I guess they decided that two more diodes were cheaper than the extra
I bought the stud-mount diodes Randall suggested from Surplus Electronics. They arrived yesterday and I put them in. But the outputs were pretty much the same as before I changed the diodes. Max DC o
Think of the output of the transformer as a sine wave. It goes smoothly from peak to peak, but spends very little time at each peak. Diodes only conduct when the anode is more positive than the catho
So if I measured min/max rather than just the default voltage (rms on my Fluke), I should see something like the 15 volts it's currently showing, while charging a very dead battery ? Also - I'm still
Karl, I did the same thing with a furnace motor I used to build a rotary tumbler. It would only spin at 600 RPM without a load. Once I put the fan back on, it went right up to 1,170, the right speed
Yup. Open circuit (without the battery), min would be zero, max probably closer to 18 volts. Yup again. Remember the charger is only putting out pulses of charging current at the peak of each 120 Hz