Hi guys,
OK, you wanted traffic... This is actually a problem with
my early MK1 GT6 engine. Since in this area the engine
design is identical to the 2000 MK1 I thought I'd ask here
first.
I've had a head gasket failure between #3 and #4.
This was on a recently rebuilt engine (~1800 miles).
The block was decked and the head was planed. I never
went back and checked the compression ratio, but the
planing/blocking were just for cleanup, so it shouldn't
have been too much of a change. I'm running a stage 1
Elgin cam which you can think of as "fast road" -- nothing
too crazy.. The head was torqued to 44ft-lb. Thats middle
of the range in the shop manual. I installed new head studs
via the torque them to specs 3 times method that ARP suggests.
Admittedly I was having too much fun when the head gasket blew. :-)
So...
Has anyone else had this kind of problem? I din't remember hearing
about this being a week point, but maybe I wasn't paying attention.
Should I just install a new head gasket per factory specs and not have
so much fun :-(, should I ignore the factory torques and use something
else instead (?what?), does someone like ARP make *HIGH* quality
studs that would let me get better clamping force.... etc. etc.
My understanding is that the ultimate fix, if this continues to be a
problem, is to machine the top of the block to accept a later style
head gasket. The limited experience (a few race engines) seems to
indicate that this actually is better than O-ringing the block and
using the early style head gasket. This, of course is the last resort
due to the labor/cost.
Oh, the ultimate, ultimate fix might be to just build up the spare
2.5L block I've got to "all out fun" specs. :-) Of course then I'd
probably just blow differentials...
--Mike
///
/// 2000-register@autox.team.net mailing list
///
|