Dick,
If this thread goes off the list please include me in the conversation, I am
seriously considering the same path Tim has taken. Hopefully I can make my
conversion less painful.
Philip
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sally or Dick Taylor [SMTP:tr6taylor@webtv.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:46 PM
> To: Timothy Holbrook
> Cc: 6Pack List
> Subject: Re: Idle mixture
>
> Tim---I don't know if I can help or not, but let's go over a few
> things..First, you paid $ to have an air/fuel monitor. Situations such
> as you described are exactly why they are sold to after market users.
> Get the blasted thing connected, for starters.
> Having only one sensor sending info about three carburetor mixes won't
> make it easy to sort out what it's telling the monitor. As you must
> know, the exhaust could now be a mixture of two rich carbs and one lean
> one, for example. You'll need to look at your sparkplugs to make sure of
> even coloring. Anytime one goes it alone when modifying an engine can
> find themselves wondering if the did the right thing! OK, enough with
> the philosophy.
>
> With the monitor hooked up and the new ground wire connection, (or at
> least with no accessories on,) start backing off on each carb needle
> raising/lowering piston. If necessary to get a reference point, see how
> many 1/4 turns it takes to bottom out each carb screw by turning it
> clockwise. (You'll feel the screw resist further turning.) This will
> make the running rich, but will tell you at least that ALL the carbs are
> set the same way. Your monitor should show all the green lights glowing,
> or a stoich of about 12:1 + .
>
> If you're more comfortable in doing so, take the four screws off the top
> of each carb and lift out the piston. You'll be able to see the needle
> go up into the piston as you screw the adjustment clock-wise.
> Otherwise, do it with the top of the carb on.
>
> With the air/fuel monitor showing a very rich condition, (all LED's
> glowing) now you can start backing OFF on each carb, in turn, one-half
> of a turn each. (Note the wrench angle before starting these turns, and
> do each one the same.) Blip the throttle, if necessary to keep the
> engine happy, or even let it run at a fast idle for15 seconds. Watch the
> monitor as you make these adjustments. As you lean out each carb,
> eventually by making only 1/8 turn adjustments, you will start to see
> the "rich" lights start to disappear. Take this leaning out process to
> where the engine isn't happy with it's meager diet anymore. Increase the
> idle speeds if you have to, to keep it running. If you can get the
> engine to idle without the green lights glowing, at idle, that's all you
> can do with the carbs and the needles provided.
>
> I, for one, am not entirely convinced that a "big" cam must run rich.
> More than likely, it just doesn't run efficiently, especially at idle
> and shows up as unburned hydrocarbons, and picked up by the 02 sensor.
>
> Tim, this may be boring the socks off those who have no interest in
> trip-carbs, or air/fuel monitors. Try the above, and let us know if you
> feel this is on the right track. You know you can write me directly, as
> there's a ton of info on this that isn't prudent to write at one
> sitting, or using this forum.
>
> Dick T.
>
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