I pulled the head of my TR6 in May, and it was quite a pain at first.
I tried the trick of filling the number 1 and 6 cylinders with rope and
jacking one rear wheel up while leaving the other wheel on the ground.
I turned the left rear wheel, but it didn't work. At first the engine
turned and I thought everthing was great. But then the going got
tough, and I ended up just turning the other wheel backwards (it went
through the diff). I got into the engine bay and pulled up on the head
using the heater valve and water pump housing to pull on, but it
wouldn't budge. I was going to lift it up with our engine crane using
these two points to lift on, but the crane was at my cousin's place
because he was pulling the engine out of his Omni GLH (blown turbo and
no oil pressure).
Then I had an idea. I had removed the intake and exhaust manifolds,
and this exposed a few upside down U shaped indents on the passenger
side (on a LHD car) of the cylinder head. If I could find a long piece
of metal, I could put on end into this indent and put the other end on
the jacking point of a hydraulic floor jack, then just jack it up.
This should just push the head up along the studs. I found the perfect
piece of metal. I had one of those 3 foot long wire wheel center lock
removers (the octagon type, not the eared type) that Moss cells. I put
the handle end in the indent on the head, and the octagon head end in
the jack, and started jacking. The head popped after 2 pumps on the
jack. I pumped the jack handle so that the head went all the way up
the studs, and then lifted it off. Easy!
I realize my description of the indents on the head is a bit tough to
understand, but if have the manifolds off, you should quickly see what
I mean. I hope it works for all of you!
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
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