List:
Well, after talking to the VTR TR6 consultant, Mark Pelham I removed the
non-adjustable metering needles from my '69 TR6 carbs with ease. I was just
be a little too conservative in my efforts. Here's how: If the needles
don't just pull out with finger touch, just put a shop rag around the base
of the needle, grasp with a pair of pliers and tug. The needles came out
quite handily.
The good news with this set-up is the damper tubes are sealed at the bottom
and require no seal or 0-ring to keep the damper oil in the tube. Leaks are
not a problem.
Just thought I'd let you all know in case anyone else is contemplating
needle replacement.
Best regards,
Walt Fogle
Earlier I wrote:>
>Dear List:
>
>I've made some recent posts regarding my rich-running '69 TR6 with
>non-adjustable carb needles. Lots of great input and suggestions and they
>are much appreciated. Thanks to DT. I checked and slightly reset the
>floats over the weekend, rechecked the sync with an air gauge, and checked
>the operation of the starter boxes (choke). Still running ok when cold but
>flooding out when warm.
>
>Today I received a new set of metering needles from Moss Motors. At first
>glance they are much thicker than the old ones. I'm hoping that these will
>help solve the problem. I'll make a digital comparison picture and post it
>on my on-line photo album later tonight if I can successfully remove the
>old
>ones.
>
>As I'm headed out to the garage to remove the top of the carbs and take out
>the air pistons can anyone tell me how to remove the old metering needles?
>I know that they're held in by a grub screw. Do you have to use a long
>punch and (gently!!) tap them out through the damper tube? There must be
>some sort of seal or o-ring around the base that houses the needle and
>spring load. I can't detect any retainer inside the damper tube (as might
>be on later models).
>
>Any 250 or '69 TR6 owners out there who've removed the metering needles?
>
>Thanks and best regards,
>Walt Fogle
>'69 TR6, CC30689L
>Woodinville, WA
>
>
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