Dr. Samuels,
Diagnosing an automotive related problem is simply a matter of
elimination.
NOTE: This is not intended to say that one should begin replacing parts
until the problem is solved!
By elimination; I mean that in the course of trying to determine what is
wrong, you will also determine what is right!
When a person is really sick, physicians immediately begin with a basic
set of physical and lab tests, in order to gain valuable data pertaining
to the overall condition of the patient. The tests are then expanded, if
needed, until a diagnosis is made...it's not that much different with
mechanics.
Fortunately, the TR-6 ignition components are fairly inexpensive. As
Theodore mentioned, plug wires can often cause the problem that you have
described.
As you have probably surmised from previous posts, I am not a big fan of
replacing parts simply for the fact that some form of advertising
campaign suggests that I should do so!
While I was typing this post Steve wrote:
Oh Yeah!!
Not on my TR but on a Plymouth several years ago. I found out the hard
way new is not always good.
Steve
And this is a fact! I have often purchased "NEW" parts that have failed!
With this said you will need to gather the tech specs for your ignition
system, as well as your FI unit, and modifications that have been made.
I personally would opt for an original configuration...not because I'm a
die hard purist...but simply for the fact that I will know what I'm
working with.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
Listers:
I'm afraid my rough running problem has returned. As I mentioned in a
post
from last week, I got the car back from the shop after the cracked
distributor rotor was replaced and the PI system was adjusted. The car
ran
great for a total of about 90 minutes. Then it started to run very
roughly
again. I removed the plugs and all were fouled. The mechanic had
warned me
that he didn't have the correct plugs available, so he put in a set of a
cooler heat range which he suspected I would have to replace in time.
So I
put in the correct set, which I had in my garage. That also solved the
radio
crackling problem that only began with the previous set of plugs.
Unfortunately, the new plugs didn't make the car run correctly. It
still
runs mainly on 5 cylinders, but smooths out in an inconsistent way,
sometimes
at high rpm and sometimes at low (most often below 2000). It is
completely
obvious when it smooths out and when it gets rough again.
Of course, I should return it to the shop for more work, but I would
love to
try to troubleshoot some of the more obvious things myself if I could.
As
usual, the shop is an hour drive from my home (actually took 90 minutes
in
traffic last week), and I wouldn't mind learning something useful. What
is a
systematic way to troubleshoot this? I suspect ignition from the way it
cuts
in and cuts out. The car has been converted to a Crane XR 700 optically
triggered electronic ignition system. If anyone is thinking fuel
system, it
has also been converted to a Bosch fuel pump which seems to be working
properly.
Any and all thoughts are appreciated!
Michael Samuels
SamuelsMA@aol.com
'70 TR6 PI
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