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Re: Winter Engine Project

To: DarcyHunt@aol.com
Subject: Re: Winter Engine Project
From: jay_welch@juno.com
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 14:48:19 -0500
Hi Darcy,

You should shoot an email to Jeff Garber (TireBiter).  He's right next
door to you.  He'll know exactly who to use to get the best job done on
your head.....plus you won't have to pay for shipping and any problems
encountered won't be long distance.
Tirebiter, free advice for those owning MG & Triumph automobiles built
between 1960 & 1981. Jeff Garber is a long-time MG & Triumph mechanic
who, as a part time occupation, does restorative work as well as tweak
your horsies to the max. Jeff is a local (MA) guy who was a British car
mechanic & repair shop proprietor for many years. He also did his fair
share of autocross racing in the 70's & 80's. Go ahead...see if you can
stump him or just ask for his opinion on something that might be
perplexing you. The clock doesn't start til he's doing the work. Visit
him at  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tirebiter/  & send him
an email with your questions. What the heck....it couldn't hurt right?
I attached a doc that you might find helpful in working on your TR6. 
It's also on our web page under Technical and is updated quarterly.

Good luck,
Jay Welch  Abington, MA
1971 TR6 Project, 1973 TR6 Driver, 1989 Mustang GT, 1/2 1971 TR6 and
bunch more junk
Secretary, Cape Cod British Car Club @ 
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/

===========================

On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 08:50:31 EST DarcyHunt@aol.com writes:
> The winter project started on Thanksgiving when I used some available 
> 
> out-of-town labor to remove the head on the '73 TR6.  I'm now trying 
> to 
> define the path forward and wanted some feedback.  Thanks in 
> advance
> 
> 1) I need to decide where to send the head and what to have done.  
> My plan is 
> to polished the combustion chambers smoothing the hard edge as 
> recommended in 
> David Vizard's book.  I would also take the sharp edge off the short 
> side of 
> the port just below the valve seat.  I then need to send it out for 
> 
> machining.  One choice is British Parts NW.  I can sent the head to 
> them and 
> they will replace the seats, install bronze guides, dual springs and 
> new 
> valves.  The exhaust valve will be the larger one off the earlier 
> head.  All 
> this for $430 plus an extra $50 to shave the head.  This seems 
> reasonable and 
> the larger exhaust valve "sounds" good.  The question I have is how 
> I ensure 
> the seats are properly blended in to the intake port and this 
> doesn't get me 
> the desired 3-angle valve grind.  I suppose I could take the head 
> apart upon 
> receipt and make sure the seat in blended enough and I probably 
> could live 
> w/o the 3-angle grind.  Any comments or recommendations for machine 
> shops in 
> the NE area that I could work with?
> 
> 2)While the head is out, I'm considering removing my radiator so I 
> can 
> replace the Camshaft.  I'm trying to decide what cam to get.  Going 
> back to 
> BPNW, their most popular grind is called a Piper 270, this provides 
> peak 
> power at 5800 with power range claimed  from 2200-6800.  This seems 
> a little 
> hot for me.  I have headers and HS6 SUs but my current driving style 
> has me 
> shifting at about 5200-5300 rpm.  While this is generally because 
> the car 
> seems to run out of gas at about 5000, I'm not sure I can see taking 
> it to 
> 6000 regularly to get to best performance.  When looking earlier, I 
> had 
> thought the Triumph Tune Road 83 giving peak power at 4750 might be 
> better.  
> Comments particularly who has the BPNW Piper 270 and how do you like 
> it?
> 
> 3)  Maybe the most controversial, but I want to consider this.  I'm 
> several 
> years away financially and otherwise from pulling the engine.  I'm 
> looking 
> down at that block, however, and am tempted to crawl under, drop the 
> pan and 
> push out the pistons to put on new rings.  I understand this is not 
> the 
> prefered approach but I want to hear from those that have tried 
> this.  I 
> would plan on putting standard size rings back in and probably 
> honing with a 
> fine hone to create slight cross hatch.  Comments please.
> 
> Thanks and with everything spread out on the work bench downstairs, 
> I'm ready 
> to start cleaning.
> 
> Darcy Hunter
> '73 TR6
> North Easton, MA  

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