Philip Barnes wrote:
> -Inspect the bushings in the suspension. If you see significant
> cracks, put them on the "winter list." The car will handle OK, but it >
will handle better with new bushings. Even renewing them with
> OEM rubber will be an improvement.
Likewise, the large rubber steering shaft connection should also be checked.
I seldom see ones in good shape, unless they have already been replaced. It
is amazing what a new shaft coupler will do to take out the slop in your
steering. Again, as Phil wrote, this is probably best done over the winter
unless you have a lot of parallel parking to do.
> -Look very carefully at the diff. mounts. These are notorious for
> cracking. If you hear a sharp clank from the rear when you drop
> the clutch, chances are good at least one is cracked. It's not all
> the difficult to repair, but it entails welding.
While you're under the diff, check to make sure the axles are bolted firmly
to the differential flanges. Likewise for the driveshaft bolts at the diff
input flange.
Other items...
I would replace the o-ring on the float chamber drain plugs on your carbs.
Again, these are usually always just on the edge of usability on an aged
car. Even the plugs themselves, the plastic ones at least, become brittle
and can crack during removal (but they seldom break just sitting there, so
replacing the o-rings is a catch 22 in some cases). This is one of those
items that is easier to fix right now than when the o-ring stops sealing and
that gasoline comes pouring out onto your hot exhaust manifold.
Since we had quite a few recent threads about clutch problems. It would be
wise to not only bleed the clutch system, but to at minimum replace the
clevis pins at the slave cylinder and clutch pedal. You'll remove some
slop, no doubt from the setup... the pins are hardware store items, less
than a dollar for the pair.
Plug wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser should all be replaced in one
shot. In my experience, this saves a whole world of trouble later on down
the road when invariably one of old ones would fail.
If you did not do so before you bought the car, compression test and leak
down are two tests that should be performed immediately. It will either
confirm your good choice in buying that particular car, or possibly force
upon you the reality that you face a rebuild down the road. Either way, it
is better than being surprised down the road when or if any current problems
become worse and more noticeable. Make sure you have adjusted the rocker
arm clearances prior to performing the tests, loose clearances will only
exaggerate any problems or make small issues look larger than they.
The last suggestion I have (on top of all the good ones other listers have
mentioned), is make sure you have a worthwhile spare tire that is not only
road worthy but holds air (and not just for a week).
Kai
--
Kai M. Radicke
Wishbone Classics
www.wbclassics.com
|