Robert---If you had only worked on ONE carburetor, we could look here
for the reason the engine isn't responsive. Do again the obvious, in
making sure the diaphragm is placed correctly into the carb that didn't
require a change of air valves.
Usually, one can look at the needle height in each carburetor, to
compare the two. Somewhere in about the middle of the height adjustment
range will get you started. You didn't say what kind of car had the
spare air valve, so I can only guess that it could be from one that
didn't use the B1AF needle. If so, the profile could be different and
wouldn't fit the needs of the TR6 engine. If in doubt, pull the needle
down far enough to read the stamped characters.
Look into the carbs as you accelerate the engine, by hand. Both air
valves should rise identially.
Dick
From: Robert L.
Date: Thu, May 13, 2004, 9:30pm Subject: Something is wrong
Ok I give up. I had way to much time on my hands, took the pistons out
of the carbs, went to polish the first one, it went flying, broke the
needle, messed up the side of the piston. So I found another piston with
what looks like a decent needle. It adjusts and slides smoothly up and
down. With new diaphragms on, the car runs but not well. I have adjusted
the needles both ways but still no luck. The sound is like a real
muffled exhaust, not like the "alive" sound it had before. It only comes
alive when there is throttle given. It used to idle smoothly and sounded
nice. Any thoughts?
Robert L. Gannon
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