Vic:
I went through this, and it turned out to be simple. The
procedure is in the Bentley manual, although the British terminology
made it challenging to figure out what the manual was saying!
1. Turn the crank so that the keyway is straight up (12:00
o'clock).
2. Lube your cam thoroughly (break in lube if the cam is new,
oil if you are reusing your old cam).
3. Insert your cam and cam retainer, torquing the retainer bolts
to the specified torque. Rotate the cam so that the index mark on the
cam nose is at 4:30 o'clock.
4. Install the lifters, push rods and rocker arms. Set the valve
lash on both valves for the #6 cylinder (do not move the cam or crank
while doing this). If you are reusing your old cam, insert the original
lifters back into their original bores. Failure to do this will result
in cam failure after less than 500 miles.
5. Fit the cam sprockets and chain, finger tighten the cam
bolts. Do not bend the bolt retainer into place yet.
6. Rotate the crank 360 degrees until the crank keyway is at
12:00 o'clock. This will place the number 6 cylinder at TDC on the
exhaust stroke.
7. Inspect the valves on the #6 cylinder. THEY SHOULD BE BARELY
OPEN AND AT EXACTLY EQUAL HEIGHTS (Or, as Bentley puts it, "on the
rock"). If you can see ANY DIFFERENCE IN THE VALVE STEM HEIGHTS, start
over at step 5. You will need to remove the cam sprocket bolts and move
the cam sprocket 1/2 tooth before trying again. Do this by rotating the
cam sprocket 180 degrees before reinserting the bolts. You may need to
rock the crank back and forth a bit to get everything to line up.
NOTE: Depending on your cam specs, the #6 valves may actually be
closed at step 7. If this is the case, use feeler gauges to measure the
valve lash of BOTH VALVES. The lash should be equal (assuming your
original lash settings were equal for both valves). If you can slip
feeler gauges under one rocker, but not the other, the cam is
incorrectly installed.
A little thought will tell you which way the cam sprocket should
be moved to bring the cam in on any subsequent tries. Always move it in
1/2 tooth increments.
You may be asking yourself if you will able to tell for certain
if the valve stems are equal heights. Trust me when I say this, if the
cam is off by so much as 1/2 of one tooth, it will be obvious when you
look. Ask me how I know.
Cheers,
Vance
------------------------------
Cogito Ergo Zoom
(I think, therefore I go fast)
TR6 Web page: http://home.comcast.net/~v.navarrette/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Victor Colon
Sent: March 11, 2005 1:12 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine timing
Here's another one for you experts. How do you "time" the crankshaft
with the camshaft? The new sprockets I purchased have no marks, neither
do the old ones. I've got the Bentley, Hanes and an old Chilton manual,
but they dont give a good description.
I also want to thank all that have responded to my other questions on
removing the outershafts off the differential. I used a 20 ton press,
one came out fine, the other broke at the flange. So I need a flange
now. Any body out here have an extra one theyd like to get rid of?
Thanks in advance,
Vic
73 TR6 Restoration
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