Ron----After removing the six nyloc nuts, there is nothing in the design
to hold the hub to the trailing arm. Maybe rust? The axle shaft will
separate, after removing any boot ties, and come out the the trailing
arm opening. Note that most of these shafts have a major key, when
replacing the outer shaft to its mate.
If the original rubber bushings are still in the arms, it is easier to
pull the arm and drill, cut, oil, swear and press these bushings out, on
the work bench. If you are replacing the newer split bushings, they can
be done by tilting the arm downward.
The "mangled hubs" stories were from trying to replace their inner
bearings. Not anything you are attempting for this job.
Dick
Ron wrote:
rmweber_99@yahoo.com(ronald weber) Date: Hub Removal
Well, I've become totally frustrated trying to use the Clymer manual for
my TR6. I'm trying to remove the trailing arm with no success. The
manual shows a TR4 live axle disassembly as well as a GT6 assembly and
mentions something about other models being similar. I don't think so!
I'm trying to remove the rear trailing arm to replace the bushings and I
can't figure out how to remove the shaft/hub assembly from the trailing
arm. I've read somewhere about how the entire axle assembly can be
removed through the trailing arm with little effort after removing the
1/2 dozen Nylok nuts (by the way, are these grade 2 or 5 nuts?) but
can't seem to figure out how. I'm a little cautious here since I've seen
previous posts about horror stories resulting in mangled hubs.
Any guidance is appreciated. Here is a rough link to where I'm at in the
disassembly... http://home.comcast.net/~ronald.weber/images/rear_hub.jpg
By the way, I searched the archives and came across a tool-less spring
removal thread that numerous people contributed to. It worked great!
Thanks!
Ron W.
1971 TR6
CC50468E
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