Mike has it right. The top bump stops must be in place to take the load
from the shock when "bottoming out".
It is also important that the frame cross member be clean where the new
bracket attaching bolts are. All the way across. We want any stress to
be spread across, and not concentrated at the bolts.
Since the (lower) bump stops on rebound are no longer used with the tube
shocks, if anything breaks it would be the shock rod itself. I haven't
had this happen yet, but then running the Baha is not in my plans.
Dick
From: mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com
In defense of the tube shock conversion and in response to Ryan's
comments listed below about tube shocks cracking shock mounts I have the
following response:
First of all I am talking about the conversion setup that
bolts to the body at the same place that the old shocks bolted and not
that strange setup where you drill holes in the body to attach the
bolts, plates, etc. I previously had my lever shocks rebuilt and still
wasn't satisfied with their performance so I went to the Tube shocks
(KYB). I have had the tube shock conversion on my car for 4 or 5 years
without any problem with cracking and I drive my car pretty
aggressively. I think the tubes have improved the ride and handling
characteristics on my car.
From what I have picked up from this site over the years,
the tube shock conversion will work fine if you ensure that the bump
stops are in good shape and that they engage with the body before the
shocks are fully compressed. This will cause those rare extreme jolts to
bottom out on the bump stop instead of the shock reducing the stress on
the shock conversion bracket and the bolting plate on the body. You also
need to make certain that the conversion bracket is securely bolted to
the body where the old shocks were bolted (use locktite) so that there
is no movement of the conversion bracket on the bolts.
I know this is a controversial topic that has been discussed
here several times in the past. I have also had friends (Al Salvatore
are you out there) who have had bad experiences with the tube shock
conversion. I'll leave it to them to provide a "fair and balanced"
response.
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6
<i don't understand why so many people want to "upgrade" to
the rear tube shock conversion kit. when my shocks were tired, it was
recommended to me to do the conversion. it sounded like a good idea, and
i even think it was a little cheaper than getting new lever-arm shocks.
unfortunatley a lot of TR6 and TR250 owners are learning the hard way
that it's a downgrade. did you know that, under normal driving
conditions, your frame can crack at the shock mounts? >
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