Rick:
The vacuum retard capsules go belly up somewhere around the
20 year mark =:-o The internal diaphragm dries out and splits,
disabling the retard and creating a vacuum leak.
Unfortunately, the later style retard capsules are no longer
available best I can tell. You can, however, order the earlier style
capsules and cut off the threaded rod. The earlier and later capsules
are
identical except for the threaded rod. To remove the capsule you will
need to drive out a tiny roll pin (1/32"???) that secures the capsule
and disconnect the spring linkage.
If you modify the earlier capsule to use on your dizzy, it will
not have the tiny hole needed to reinsert the roll pin. You can drill
one (I didn't have much success with this - too difficult to get it
in the correct location with a hand drill) or you can drill and tap
your dizzy for a set screw. The ghetto fix is to not worry about the
roll pin or a set screw at all. The spring linkage will keep the capsule
in position all by itself, thank you. Do NOT ask how I know.
I ordered my "old" capsule from Vicky Brit, but Moss carries
them
too. TRF carries one of them, but I can't tell if it is the earlier or
later style, and they may well put you on back order in any event.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From:
rnorris1@swbell.net(Rick Norris) Date: Mon,
I finally put a timing light on my '75 and discovered that the timing is
way advanced. I feel pretty confident that the vacuum retard either
doesn't work, as when I apply a vacuum no change occurs in the engine
idle, or it's been crippled. When I remove the vacuum line between the
rear carb and the retard pot, no change occurs either.
I've seen the advice on this listserve to block the vacuum retard and
simply set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC. How does one locate that point
on the damper?
Am I correct in assuming that the first of the two timing marks to
appear is TDC and the second being 4 degrees ATDC?
Just out of curiosity, how advanced might the timing be if ignition
occurs, as in my case, when the TDC mark (the first mark) is just coming
into view on the other side of the damper?
I read that an unlit propane torch is a good way to locate vacuum leaks.
Any potential unpleasant surprises in pursuing that strategy as long as
I keep the torch over on the intake side?
Rick Norris
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