John---I use a light wipe of Anti-seize on the end that goes into the
block. (Lubrication on this end doesn't cause a difference in torque
readings.) Because I remove these studs before taking off the head, I
want them to come out with minimum difficulty. I have never had any of
these studs "accidently" come loose. On the end of the stud that the nut
goes on, I use nothing on the threads.
If there's a trace of oil here, as well as on the washers. take this
into consideration when doing the torqueing.
I see no reason to use Loctite here.
There could be a couple of studs that are longer than the others. Save
these for those spots that are difficult to get a double nut on.
The end of the studs with less threads go into the block.
I re-use these (hardened) washers when I see they look as new.
I also re-use the studs, when I see they''re not stretched. (Spin a nut
down to the root thread, if in doubt.)
You'll likely get others favorite methods on the subject.
Dick
From:
john70350@msn.com(JOHN JOHNSON)
I'm getting ready to re-install my cylinder head and I checked the
e-mail archive at Team.net and did'nt find the answer to this question.
Should the head stud threads have oil or Loctite on either end and also
should the head stud washers be replaced or can I re-use them? Anything
else to watch for on this re-install? Thanks John 1974 TR6 CF28816U
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