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Newby needs help (fwd)

To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines)
Subject: Newby needs help (fwd)
From: tjhiggin@chris.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins)
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 00 9:25:17 CDT
Mary Holmes writes:
> 
> I have recently acquired a Series I being restored as a seasonal
> driver.  The body is in above average condition, but I have been
> plagued by three separate issues that are preventing my getting on
> the road.
> 
> 1. Brakes, Part A:  The brake pedal sinks 1/2 way to the floor before
> engaging the brakes, and then return to that 1/2 way point on
> release.  Although, with judicious use of the gears I could get a
> stop out of them, they get progressively worse as each time I brake,
> until I put my foot under the pedal and manually pull it back up.  I
> have rebuilt the master cylinder, which did have a chipped seal at
> the point where the orifice to the reservoir gets closed.  Otherwise,
> the bore is clean and unscored, the new seals fit tightly and the the
> cylinder will actuate properly out of the car (throws a nice jet of
> fluid).  The return spring behind the pedal "seems" good (is a pain
> to compress to remove and reinstall), the line do not leak, the wheel
> cylinders do not leak, all pads are fine, the system has been
> thoroughly bled and the rear brakes have been adjusted per the
> manual.  What am I missing?
> 
> 2. Brakes, Part B: The parking brake handle came removed from the
> car, the housing or cover or shroud piece under the original floor
> was missing and the cable was frozen.  I worked the cable free, fixed
> the handle but am still missing the shroud and the fitting that holds
> the front end of the cable housing to the car.  I can fabricate
> something that will work, but could use some idea as to what this
> business is supposed to look like.  What is the part where the cable
> passes from the undercarriage into the space under the floor? Is
> there a source for the Series I brake cable?  If not, what do folks
> do?
> 
> 3. Oil Pressure: Although the car starts easily and maintains a good
> oil pressure when cool (45 - 50#), the pressure drops to 10# or so
> after warm up.  This can't be good, but I cannot figure out where my
> pressure is going.  I am not really wanting to hear that the bearings
> are shot and need to be replaced before doing anything else (engine
> rebuild stuff is for the winter when the rest of the car is in
> hibernation).  I am using some oil (need to adjust valves) and am
> leaking a bit at the valve cover gasket.  I do not think, though,
> that this would account for the whole pressure drop.  I do not want
> to adjust valves if I know I have to replace bearings and rings right
> now.
> 
> Since the top is shot, the clutch is a bit chattery and I need to
> replace the tired wire wheels with more practical "runner" rims (not
> to mention the "exciting" 40 year old Lucas electrics), I do not want
> to just throw parts at this thing without really believing that the
> existing ones are done for.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> mholmes@mcs.cnyric.org


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