After a spell away from car restoration,
I've been constructing a similar "rotisserie" to finish off the welding on
my Ser III body.
Looking at the photo on the last page of the article, I'd definitely
recommend fitting
a bracing structure across both the door gaps- I'm using 40x40x3mm angle
iron,
one length welded into each door gap. (The can doors still fit on, if
required)
Otherwise the weight of the car will try to fold itself in half, even if the
metal work is
totally sound - the join between the "cabin" and the rear third is quite
flexible.
Structural integrity will be worse in a 35 year old car,
if you start chopping out up to 3 layers of sills( rockers), B-posts,
cruciform ends and front spring hangers, etc...
-Andy-
> From: Steve Laifman <SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com>
>
> "RICHARD TUTTLE JR." wrote:
> >
> > Have begun restoration on my tiger and would like to flip the car to
> > work on the bottom.
> > I have several strong friends who can lift and flip the car the question
> > is where to support
> > it when it is upside down. I have done this with wooden boat bottoms
> > and supported the boat with saw horses in the right locations. Any
> > thoughts on this subject would be
> > a great help.
>
> Boy, Richard, are you in luck.
>
> TigersUnited.com has just released our Australian Correspondent, Wally
> Menke's, design for a Tiger (Alpine) Rotisserie design, complete with
> photos and engineering dimensioned drawings.
>
> Check it out at http://www.TigersUnited.com/techtips/rtips.asp
>
> Steve Laifman
> Editor
> TigersUnited.com
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