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Re: stock 95 Saturn SL2 (long)

To: "autocross" <AUTOX@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Re: stock 95 Saturn SL2 (long)
From: "Justin Hughes" <ka1ult@channel1.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 10:14:34 -0500
Funny you should ask... ;)  This year I got a 95 Saturn SC2, which with a
few small exceptions is pretty much identical to your SL2.  So I've done a
little research on this. ;)

> E-stock

A good place to start.  Or go for the ST, STR, SM route if you wish to play
like I do.  I want to use my K&N cone and to tweak my handling with an
adjustable rear sway bar, which are big-bang-for-the-buck mods, and not
stock legal.  You could go SP (not sure which SP class we'd fit into), but I
think ST and its variants will be more fun.

> SPS for parts

http://www.spswebpage.com.  They're the only 100% Saturn specialist I know
of.  A few other places do stock some Saturn parts, but they're not nearly
as common as, say, Honda.

> First and most important: sticky tires and light wheels

First and most important: Fix the loose nut behind the wheel.  This means
you. ;)  You're not going to get a lot out of Hoosiers, BFGs, Kumhos, or
whatever you use unless you really know how to drive the car first (previous
autox experience helps, but a Saturn's different than a 240SX, and MUCH
different than my BMW 320i), so learn on more forgiving (and cheaper) street
tires, then switch to stickies once you quit skidding all over the place. ;)
If you're serious about autox, you may want to invest in a second set of
wheels, even cheap steel rims, and put cheap street tires on them to tear up
at events.  Then when you're ready you can slap some race tires on.  Try and
get some used - get to know some club racers who happen to run your tire
size.

> stock aluminum wheels (15x6,50mm offset, 4x100 bolt circle) are 16 lbs.
> 205/50-15 is a good size for competition (unless you think you can get
225's
> on the front)

225s tend to rub - 205/50/15 is probably best.  Note the overall diameter
will be slightly smaller than stock.  No problem for ES - on the street your
speedometer will read slightly high.

> Hoosiers are widest and lightest (need 5mm spacers for strut clearance)

Any good sticky tire will work.

> For more power (+6hp to 130):fresh rebuild, K&N, Red Line oil, 2 in.
> unmuffled cat.-back

For a 95, unless it's a high mileage engine I doubt a rebuild will get you
that much.  Intake, exhaust, plugs, and wires will get you at least that
+6hp you're looking for.

> Red Line D4 tranny fluid for durability (good for at least 1year)

According to Saturn, you never have to change the tranny fluid.  I'd take
that with a grain of salt.  RedLine is good stuff - I know many BMW pilots
who swear by it, and if it's good enough for them...

> For shorter braking: sticky tires(see above), change fluid 1x/yr,
> also.....SPS Kelate Metallic auto-x pads (more for feel)

We've covered tires - their stickyness will definitely help braking.  Fluid
change is simply basic maintenance.  The SPS pads you refer to I believe are
actually Carbotech - SPS sells them.  They're considered the best
street/autox setup.  I bought Stillen Metal Matrix pads from SPS for half
the price.  Using them with stock replacement rotors, they're almost as good
as the Carbotechs, and half the price.

> Suspension: didn't mention e-stock setup but applicable parts mentioned
> were: KYB strut inserts, bushings, max 2deg. neg camber front and rear to
> keep it streetable.

The hot setup is Carrera struts, but they're pricey.  I know many who are
happy with KYB, both with stock springs and aftermarket (not stock legal)
springs.

> My Ques:
> Any of the above incorrect?

I think I covered that. :)

> Are the pads just good for feel or also distance?

Speaking for the Stillens, both.  They have a much more positive grip than
the stock pads, which reduces distance.  To me, better stopping power IS a
good feel. :)

> What do the steel wheels weigh?

Not a whole lot more than the stock "alloy" wheels.  For starters, I
wouldn't worry about it too much.  Plus, if you're in snow country, you can
use them for snow tires in winter! :)

> What's a good source for used Saturn speed parts?

Join SPOC (Saturn Performance Owners Club) at http://www.mccouch.com/spoc
and/or SPC (Saturn Performance Club) at http://www.billdeebs.pair.com and
join the mailing lists.  LOTS of good Saturn specific advice is available
here!  Sometimes people sell their old speed parts when they upgrade to
something better.

> What's a good source for new Saturn speed parts?

SPS is one of the best.  Sierra Performance and CWC Motorsports also sell
Saturn stuff.

> I love(d) (sad story, tell you later) the Hoosiers on my BSP 71 240x, but
> they're $155 vs. $110 for Kuhmo's - what do you think?

There's nothing wrong with the Kumhos - I know people who swear by them.
Those on the list with more race tire experience would know more than me
here.

> I'm thinking the above power improvement is mostly from the
> rebuild -agree/disagree?

Disagree - there's a lot of restriction in the intake and exhaust to reduce
noise.  Lose the restriction, and you get more power.  Do the basics like
this before thinking about an extensive (and expensive!) rebuild, especially
when the engine's only 5 years old at most.

> Think only replacing the bushings allowed by stock rules with orange stuff
> would just screw up the handling?

Define "orange stuff:" Rubber?  Urethane?  Delrin?  Where would you put it?
What else would you plan to do to the suspension?  It all works together as
a system.  Choose wisely.  Saturns are among the better handling inexpensive
FWD cars.  Like most, they tend toward understeer.  But I've spun my SC2
with a bone stock suspension!

> What's the max. legal camber adjustment?

Not sure on that.

> Are the KYB's adjustable?

No - I don't believe there are any adjustable struts (Koni, etc.) available
for the Saturn at this time. :(

> I'm thinking just tires, junk yard steel wheels and a harness for this
> season - what do you think?

Yes!!!  Steel wheels and some cheap tires (street or sticky) to thrash
around on will let you learn the car.  A harness is an excellent idea to
hold you in place so you can concentrate on driving instead of hanging on
for dear life. :)  All of these are upgrades I plan to make over the winter.

> Oh yeah- how do I mount the harness since a rear tower bar seems illegal?

Go for a Schroth harness.  Lap belt mounts to the rear bolts for the front
seat.  Shoulder belts mount to one or both of the rear seat belt harnesses.

Feel free to ask if you want to know more.  Or even better, check out SPC
and SPOC!

    - Justin
      95 SC2 "Locutus"
      83 320i "Igor"




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