This begs another question. Would it make sense with an Accel supercoil
(which has a cermaic balast resistor included) to run a normal wire to
the ballast resistor and then to the coil, or should I use the
Ballasted wire to power the ballast resistor.
I am currently just running a fused normal wire to the ballast resistor
and then on to the coil but I would hate to start frying things (I have
enough problems as it is)
Has anyone replaced the mechanical choke with an electric choke on their
74? Where are you pulling the power from?
Thanks
-Scott #466
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Monfort [mailto:wingracer@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 1998 10:52 AM
> To: John T. Blair
> Cc: Bricklin@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Ballast Resistor
>
>
>
>
> >on this in the last day. There IS a ballast resistor. For a 74 it
> is a
> >resistive wire that is run in the wiring harness from the 4A fuse
> in the
> >fuse block to the coil. If you measure the resistance from the +
> side of
> >the coil to the 4A fuse, it should be 1.35 ohms.
> ============
> Ditto for my '75.
> ============
> If that wire is broken,
> >then that WOULD explain why the car would start and run ONLY when
> the ign.
> >switch was in the "start" position.
> >
> >When the ign. switch is in the "start" position, the ballast
> resistor
> >is cut out of the system. Thus allowing for a hotter spark. (For
> more
> >info. on this see my article on electrical - ignition on the web
> page.)
> >
> >I would think that if this wire is broken, you could mount an
> external
> >ballast resistor on the fenderwell and run a "normal" wire from the
> >fuse block to one side of the resistor, and then from the other
> side
> >of the resistor to the coil.
> ===========
> This is the hot ticket since the OEM wire normally increases
> resistance over time and affects performance.
> ===========
> >
> >Change of subject. 74's have an interesting item. They will NOT
> start
> >unless the seat belts are buckled. (This is what that large
> whiteish
> >plastic box is on the pass. side floor board.) This was NOT the
> case
> >in the 75s. The 74's also have a relay on the top, rear of the
> pass.
> >front fender well. There is a "red" rod or button sticking out.
> If
> >the car will NOT start, you can depress the button inside this rod
> with
> >the ignition on and the car should start.
> >
> >I've spent about 5 hours trying to get the 74 I've been working on
> to
> >start. I had it running great for the last month. All of a
> sudden,
> >a couple of days ago it would not start. I was not getting and
> power
> >to the start side of the starter solenoid. I replaced the ignition
> >switch to no avail. Today, I managed to figure out how to by-pass
> >the seat belt control module. The only problem is that I've also
> >by-passed the park/neutral safety switch. So not the car will
> start
> >in any position on the transmission.
> >
> >Anybody played with the wiring for the park/neutral safety switch?
> >There are 3 wires going to it. The switch is supposed to signal
> >both when in park/neutral and when in reverse - it activates the
> back
> >up lights. There is a connector on the firewall right next to the
> one
> >for the wiper motor. This is the breakout for the wiring to the
> >park/neutral safety switch. The center wire goes hot when the ign.
> >switch is turned to "run" and "start". What I haven't figured out
> >is where the wire goes when it goes back into the main harness. I
> >have to find a way of getting that tied into the by-passing of the
> >seatbelt safety lockout so the car will NOT start except in park/
> >neutral.
> =============
> I know this was standard on Ford's around '74, and I assume other
> makes. Have you looked at a wiring diagram from that era for a
> possible clue?
>
> GM
>
>
>
>
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