Very typical issues. First, check (it's best to just go ahead and
replace) all the vacuum tubing, from the light switch, the emergency
bypass, the engine, the relays, the cannister and the actuators. The
reason that the lights don't go up is probably because either the vacuum
lines are not hooked up or the front seals are worn out (most likely).
I wrote an article on replacing front seals in the last issue of
Brickline but if you don't have it I can send a file to you. The reason
one light goes down before the other is likely due to uneven wear in the
mechanisms or, since yours is an earlier car that had one relay for each
light, perhaps one is triggering faster. I ran some armorall through my
relays to try to lube them and preserve the rubber.
The reason that the lights go down but not up is in the design of the
actuator. Imagine an empty pie tin covered in saran wrap. On top of
that invert another tin. On both sides there are holes for vacuum and
on one side is another hole right in the middle with a rod going through
it and attaching to the inside saran. Now when vacuum is applied to the
back side, the saran and the rod pull in. When applied to the front, if
the hole around the rod is sealed, the saran and rod pull forward. But
if that rod hole is leaking, no vacuum can be generated to pull the rod
and the lights can't go up. The fix for this should cost about 20.00,
not counting new vacuum lines.
Use DOT 3 brake fluid. Take care and write if there are any questions.
Kim.
>
>Hi there,
>
>First time I am trying this so bear with me. I own #353 and am doing
>some upkeep.
>
>My headlamps can be pulled up manually but do go down when switched
>off. Unfortunatley one lamp goes down before the other. What causes
>this? Why will they not go up when switched on? Are the valves
>possibly stuck and need replaced?
>
>Also what type brake fluid do I need? I don't see anything especially
>for this in my manual and tech points.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pat
>
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