Not only that all the "cyber dyno" programs I have tried are based on
'mathematic principle' rather than real world testing. I have done both and
real world testing on a calibrated dyno is the only way to go. Yep it's
expensive but still is 20 months worth of playing around only to get back
where you started. I have the luxury of having several well respected race
engine builders as customers. I routinely pick their brains and I can
usually call in a favor once in a while and scoop some dyno time ( as well
as someone to run it and that knows what to look for and how to fix it).
This is the only way to get guaranteed results (most of the time). The next
best thing is to do one of the 'package' systems, but that leaves lots of
variables and chances for disappointment.
One thing you must remember and tell whoever is building or specing out
your engine, is that the brick weighs almost 2 tons and has a low
performance cast iron truck transmission with a low stall converter. This
makes a big difference when choosing mods. What works in a light weight
Mustang with an AOD or 5 speed ain't going to work in a Brick. You needs
lots of grunt down low near idle to get the tons of brick off the line and
make it feel 'snappy'. 700 horses up top ain't going to help you get that
brick moving!
Rick, frozen to the ground up here in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: alphachi <alphachi@writeme.com>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: to mod or not to mod....
> Unfortunately, a computer program only guestimates and doesn't include
such
> real world variables as production controls and the hamfisted,
pot-damaged,
> synaptic canyoned,
> knumbknuts factor.
> stephan #2821
>
>
>
> Thats why you can use the computer and find out what will work and what
> happen if you change thihg around. And how much it will help or if it wont
> do
> for the money what you want it to
> Cecil the real Diesel
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