>Here's another general question about rebuilding: What is the
>"proper" lubrication during the rebuild? I recall vaguely hearing
>that things like the cam, various bearings and so on should be
>lubricated during reassembly. True? If so, what type of lubricant,
>and any hints? What's done to get oil in the passages before firing
>up the engine - turning the engine over by hand? Also, along the same
>lines, what's the feeling about gasket sealant, loc-tite (recently
>discussed re: connecting rod bolts) and other such marvels of modern
>chemistry?
Use "assembly lube" when putting the engine together. Use it early,
use it often. Use it on cam bearings, cam lobes, lifters, gudgeon
bearings, rod bearings, main bearings and rocker assembly. Use it every-
where two pieces of metal are expected to move against each other (with
the exception of the cylnders ... put lots of oil on the cylinder walls
before cranking it. To prime the oil pump, dump oil down the oil line
connection of the back end of the engine. Dump in about half a pint.
What I've done to make sure I have oil presure is leave that line off
and crank the engine until oil spews out. (Crank the engine without
spark plugs in place, you don't want to force compression strokes
until you have oil circulating.) When you have oil pressure at the
back oil line connection, attach the hose (pipe on 77s?). You might
want to not put an oil filter on until you're sure oil is getting
there. Once you've made it to this point, put the oil filter on.
Cranking the engine another 15 seconds should get you oil pressure on
the guage. Crank it another 5 or so seconds to make sure oil is
getting to everywhere. I pour a quart of oil over the rocker
assembly when filling the engine, rather than just filling the pan
through the filler hole in the valve cover.
>Permatex Gasket Sealant VB 14-047 3.64 (?)
Get the hi temperature copper stuff. I find the spray cans work
best. It'll cost more like seven dollars. I've used it on all
gaskets except the head gasket and valve cover gasket. DO NOT PUT
ANS GASKET SEALER ON THE HEAD GASKET. "Glue" the valve cover gasket
to the valve cover with the oil resistant permatex in a tube (that
may be 3.64). If installed carefully and not over torqued, you
shouldn't need any gasket sealer between the gasket and head. You'll
thank yourslef when you retorque the head and adjust the vales after
about 500 miles. It you use a sealer on the oil pump, use it *very
sparingly)
>Oil Pump Spindle VB 1-943 99.95 (?)
> TRF 11G12 96.33
Unless the one you have is visibly worn, I don't think you'll need
it.
>Piston Set VB 1-3137-? 289.95
> TRF AE19354/?? 44.95 (4) 179.80
Get the AE pistons. Not only is the price better, the manufacture of
them is much better.
>Rod Bearings VB 1-343-? 24.95
> TRF VPR91173/?? 22.95
>Main Bearings VB 1-342-? 26.95
> TRF VPM9116/?? 37.50
>Thrust Washer Set VB 1-385 7.95
> TRF VPW77/?? 6.35
Did I already delete crankshaft? Get a reground crankshaft (or get
your crankshaft ground) to .010 under size, and make sure you get
appropriate bearings. Scott Fisher found that getting his crank
ground is quite a bit cheaper than exchanging for a reground
crankshaft.
>Camshaft (64-71) or 18V- VB 1-832 189.95
> TRF CAM1156 189.50
YOW! Call British Motorsports, (408) 370-7174. They can get you
either a stock regrind or their "mild street grind" cam for about $90
with exchange.
>Moly Lube EC 8570 8.95 (for cam?)
This is the stuff you want to use on all your bearings and whatnot.
>High Flow Oil Pump VB 1-9130 164.95
Probably not necessary. New oil pumps put out about 40-50 psi at
idle and ar up to the maximum of 70 psi by 2000-2500 rpm. This is
probably a part for people who want to ignot the fact their bearings
ar worn.
> Release Bearing VB 4-370 52.95
> (Roller type) TRF TRFCD50 22.50
Ask if these have metal or plastic races. A problem with the plastic
race release bearings is the bearings heat up and melt into the
plastic ... not good. If these have metal races, tell me! I'll buy
a couple.
andy
banta@abingdon
|