Conservation of thoughts causes me to cram this together, some of these
things I thought I sent out a while ago, but they never got anywhere
(didn;t get back to me, at least), apologies if you've seen it already.
Not having invented anything really *special* I should amend/repair my
earlier tag to "custom two-tone pop up headlamp housings". Matching paint
colors at Trak Auto is a bit rough (for Carmine lbcs). I imagine that
yellow/white lamps could be made (for the French, no doubt, although I
read that they have dropped the yellow lamps requirement).
The TR7 is now shod in Dunlop D60 A2s, steering wheel vibration is
significantly reduced, but not completely gone. (Arrgh). I haven't
decided if the car has more body roll now, or if it simply holds better,
allowing the car to lean more before breaking away. The rotors are
definite $problem$.
Late comment - A while ago someone from Pheonix (forgive my inability to
connect people to their messages, I'm new about here...) was commenting on
problems with keeping the bushings in a sway bar in place. If this is a
problemstill, couldn't they be held in check by placing clamps on either side,
or the side to which the bushings drift. I mention this, because I have just
replaced the bushings on my TR7, and the sway bar had split ring type
clamps on the inside (toward the centerline) of the subframe bushings.
And is there an *elegant* way to compress sway bars to get them back
into the end fittings? I had a good old time :-), finally levering the
thing back in with a 2x3.
Question: My TR7 backfires (splats, burps, whatever) heavily during
engine braking, and usually once on up-shifts. Aside from not having a real
exhaust system installed, what have I done wrong with the carbs?
The car has the standard Zenith/Stromberg dual (Federal Regs) set up.
I haven't checked the fuel mixture (I have a Colortune plug), but
I am pretty sure the flow is balanced. Also I have been unable to get
the timing set right, because I can't move the distributor any further
around (I believe I am 3-5 degrees off, not advanced enough I *think*,
but don't have the manual or notes from when I checked this...). Would
changing the type of oil in the carburettor dashpots help?
On knock offs, in addition to the rear wheel torque (on acceleration)
tightening knockoffs when they are on correctly, rolling resistance
should in general tighten both the rear and front wheels. I have not
read this authoratatively, but as I sit and think about it, I believe it.
Just think that the wheels really don't want to turn as fast as the hub,
even when they are just rolling - due to friction with the road and (hopefully
very little) with the hub bearings. This means that RHS (or ROS) should
have Left Handed Threads, and LHS or (LNS) should have Right Handed Threads
Finally a great device for remembering right handedness or left handedness is
that, if you make a fist with your right hand, thumb pointing out,
Rotating a right handed screw in the direction from the base of your fingers
toward the finger tips, moves the screw in the direction of your pointed
thumb (and left hand/left handed threads similar). Being a Rensselaer man,
I am also aware of something known as the 'Tute screw, which, no matter
which way you rotate it, goes in. :-).
Where do I send an entry for the SOL owner's survey, and can someone
mail me a copy of the SOL logo, as I haven't got access to a GIF reader/
hardcopy device...
Greg
fieldson@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu Dept of Chemical Engineering
"When my Spitfire grows up, it's The Johns Hopkins University
going to be a big Healey!" Baltimore, Maryland 21218
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