Here's one of those questions that i've never been able to get a reassuring
answer on.
When my really early 10.5 :1 cr was reco'd i ordered up that the rear rope seal
be changed for the more modern rubber lip type. Standard procedure really! Ok
so the crank needed a bit of a champhering too. In the end the whole engine was
assembled & we set it up on a bed with a radiator & gave it a run. No problems
at all. My reason to run it is that it's being shoe-horned into a pretty tiny
space of my kitcar & i wanted to confirm any nasties like leaks especially oil.
i left it all asside for a few months and upon an inspection noted the rocker
gear growing a little brown here & there! Darn rust.
Quick enquiries suggested i fill the whole thing up with oil to stop the nasty
damp air that we have here doing its thing. We did this but a couple days later
there was oil all over the workshop floor. it was fair pouring from the rear
crank seal. (Oh darn)! Closer inspection showed the seal was a retro-fit kind,
right size etc but VERY soft & bright day-glow orange colour compared to the
genuine Rover spare that's a dark-red and much tougher. So i checked with four
Rover agents, talked with my reco guy who'd done the rebuild (he supplied a
genuine seal) & all said ok to let the rear bearing go to pull the junk seal &
install the proper one. Here's my biggest fear. The polished journal crank was
torqued up on new studs with its new bearings run for 20mins max not above
2000rpm & then i'm told i can let the rear main go to change the seal! i've
always read & understood that we should've done a proper pull down then torque
the crank up through all its bearings (i'm sure you get my drift in what i mean
here). The Rover agents said i've nothing to worry about, that its a common
repair the Landies have done. Hmmm i'm very sceptical so should i install this
engine & suck 'n see or adopt a more sensible approach?
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