> >I have the newest Draw-Tite controller. It is less than a year old.
> >There is
> >a control on it to set the braking current and a display to tell you what
> >it is
> >set to. My understanding is that the pendalum was a thing of the past, as is
> >tying into the hydraulics. Maybe not, possibly just a sales tool.
> Interesting. When you think about it, there must some relatively
> inexpensive transducers available since the G-Tech, G-Analyst and other
> similar devices that measure vector acceleration are really pretty cheap
> these days. I'd think you could use similar technology to control voltage
> to trailer brakes, too. If you're measuring lateral acceleration a
> pendulum moving in a single (fore & aft) plane won't cut it.
I was thinking about getting hold of the speed (mph) pulses coming out of the
units and just integrating that to produce a DC voltage that would be used to
transistor or IC that would replace the 2 terminal pot that sets the max brake
I wouyld probably have to go with an opto coupler to get things working
figured I would put some extra signal conditioning in to give me gain and
I'll look into the G-Tech sensors, thanks!
> Did you install the controller yourself? I remember on the K-H you
> adjusted a lever on one side of the controller to a vertical position and
> then there was a knob on the opposite side to set sensitivity. Seemed to
> work well although we never really did a long tow before selling the
> trailer and truck (in anticipation of the big move that fell through).
This controller was initially installed on my Ford half ton pickup
decided that it wouldn't do for pulling this big trailer, so, when I bought the
3/4 ton van I moved the controller over. Not a big job, I have been playing
electrons since I was 4...gee, that means I have been at it for 48 years!
> I'm trying to be more thorough in my research this time around. I don't
> want to get into a tow rig any larger than I need to, but I would rather
> err on the plus side rather than something slightly too small. That's why
> we've ruled out mini vans, even with the newer V-6s. They're rated to tow
> up to 3500 lbs., but that's max load. Since the car and trailer are going
> to run around 3200 lbs., that doesn't leave enough margin for passengers
> and other stuff to make me comfortable. I would definitely appreciate the
> benefit of other's experiences, off list if you'd prefer.
I understand. Our Ford did reasonably well towing 5200lbs, but slowed down on
Backing it was the main problem that caused me to get another tow vehicle. The
Ford had the 4.9L 6 cyl, but the reall gotcha was the manual transmission! Ford
clutches aren't the best in the world and I ended up smoking it a bit the first
I backed into a spot on level ground! The 6 cyl was fine, but I suspect that it
was being pushed harder than it should have been, as well as the clutch.
> Ronnie Day
> Dallas/Ft. Worth
> '71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
> '73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
Right now the trailer I am pulling is a 31' 1970 Avion travel trailer. Being
is so old I am having to make parts for it. Right now my holing tank is
cracked in a
few places so I am making a new PVC tank. Plastic welding is not as difficult
thought it would be! Next comes making either a vacuformed or fiberglass bath
Gee, for a trailer in such good shape I find more and more ways to learn new
The wife and I have had this trailer for about 6 months now and have been out 3
with it, Dallas, Miniola and Kerrville Texas. Later this year we will probably
it to Florida. We have been thinking about tagging along with Tom Walter for
to Alaska in 2001. We probably won't be able to get away then, but it is fun
<Roadster content> We won't be able to take the roadster with us, it would be
towing it behind the trailer, and it won't fit through the door to put it
what about on top of the van?!?
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Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor, Hardware Guru
CS Dept, University of Texas, Austin, Tx. 78712 USA
voice (512)471-9517, fax (512)471-8885, UUCP:cs.utexas.edu!horne