I have never overheated in the 22 years I've owned my car and driving in 100
weather. Yes it runs warm, about 210 at times, but I don't consider that
overheating.
The 66 has a skinny 2 row rad and I highly recommend getting it recored to a
3 row rad. The 66 also has a crummy 2 piece steel fan that I would heave
into the garbage or into the basement and install a plastic 4 blade fan from
the 1600s or the later 7 blade fan or install a Spal 13" HD electric fan
which pulls a lot of air.
I also blocked off the area between the rad and the front supports to ensure
air is flowing through the rad and not around it. Also make sure your air
guide on the bottom of the rad is still there.
Also check your timing, and plugs for mixture. If it's too lean or too
retarded or advanced, the engine will run warmer.
Other than a good flush all should be well.
Mike
66 SPL 1819
PS - As you may know the 66s originally came with cast iron not aluminum
heads. Remember to retorque the head once a season and adjust the valves.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Giel" <giel@earthlink.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 3:03 PM
Subject: New to list w/questions (a bit long)
> Hi Group!
>
> I am very new to this list and will introduce myself and my
> car in another message later on, if that is appropriate. I
> must tell you, in advance, that my introductions to the
> Datsun roadster (back in 1976) were all negative, so you
> might not want to hear them!
>
> I have so many questions about my car, but let me start with
> one or two.
>
> I have a 1966 SPL311 1600 with the original engine (78K+
> miles.) I am at a major disadvantage regarding this car as
> I have never seen (let alone had) the owners manual. The
> few Chiltons service manuals I have are worthless when it
> comes to operating the car or what to expect from it. I
> don't know the power curves for the engine, or shift points,
> or fuse values, etc. I do know, I am farther from having it
> back on the road than I originally thought.
>
> First, Should I feel unfortunate that my car has the
> original R engine (with an aluminum head)? I have been
> reading on this list that all roadsters tend to overheat,
> and that the thermal expansion difference between the
> aluminum head and cast iron block creates all kinds of
> problems when (not if) it "overheats".
>
> Is the roadster a reliable vehicle? I don't notice that any
> of you mention "babying" your stock cars on the road. Among
> all the members on this list, it looks like somebody drives
> their roadster under almost every possible driving
> condition. So, it appears nothing is preventing the
> roadster from going anywhere that other cars go, including
> deserts, mountains, in town, coast-to-coast, etc.
>
> Can anyone help me understand the overheating problems
> frequently mentioned on this list. What causes them and
> what, if anything, is done about them?
>
> 1. The temperature gauge reads from a low of 130 degrees
> Fahrenheit up to 250 deg. F with a center reading of 190
> deg. F. which implies both a linear gauge, and an
> approximate operating temperature.
>
> One of my Chiltons manuals says the R-engine uses a 176
> deg. F (80 deg. C) thermostat. That would mean a fully
> opened working temperature of 191 deg. F, (88.3 deg. C.)
> which matches the midpoint of the temperature gauge. Again,
> that makes sense, but it does not tell me what temperature
> is "overheated" and when to expect potential permanent
> damage.
>
> Short of piston seizure or a blown head gasket, what defines
> "overheating" in the ":R" engine? When should I be
> worried? When should I pull off the road and read a good
> book, or risk losing the engine?
>
> Strangely, I also read (in the same Chiltons manual): "When
> heater output is insufficient, the original equipment
> thermostat may be replaced with one having a higher
> temperature rating." It never mentions how much higher but
> the idea of making an engine that already tends to overheat
> run even warmer to improve the passenger comfort strikes me
> as "ill-advised". Speaking for myself, I think Id look for
> another jacket or even a parka if I had to.
>
> What happens when you drive in arid zones like those found
> in California or out in Arizona? What about driving in the
> mountains (my favorite kind of driving) and the extra work
> of climbing, higher RPMs, and the effects of the higher
> altitude when you get there? The coolant boiling point
> drops by 2 deg.F per 1000 feet increase in elevation,
> (thats 20 degrees lower at 10,000 ft.) what effect, if any,
> does that have on the overheating problem?
>
> The system has a MAXimum coolant system pressure of only 6
> pounds. A 50:50 antifreeze to water mixture boils at 230
> deg. F (110 deg. C.) The boiling point raises about 3.25
> deg. F for each pound per square inch (6.895 kilopascals) of
> additional pressure. That means the 6 pound system would
> start to boil over (and out the pressure cap overflow) at
> about 250. deg. F (121 deg. C) which matches the temperature
> gauges highest reading (on my car.) Does that mean by the
> time you see white steam, it is too late?
>
> What is everybody doing to keep things cooler and avoid the
> heat damage? Bigger fans? Bigger radiator (is there room?)
> or what? I was hoping to keep things as original as
> possible on this car, but not if it means ruining it.
>
> Finally, is there an archive of this list? If so, please
> let me know where it is, so that I dont have to ask as many
> stupid questions in the future.
>
> You folks are really wonderful, and the enthusiasm you all
> display for your cars and each other is magnificent,
> contagious, and inspiring. I look forward to meeting as many
> of you as possible and someday being able to contribute to
> the list, instead of just taking from it.
>
> TIA
>
> Bob Giel
> --
> Life is short, Start with Dessert!
> and remember:
> When man ultimately meets his Maker, he will have to answer
> to Him
> for all of those G-d given pleasures of life, of which he
> did not take full advantage.
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