Thanks all for the pointers. Victor nailed it:
"Laury, Victor" wrote:
> Dan, swap float bowl tops with someone and see if the problem changes.
No muddobbers (say, is that how it's spelled?), so swapped lid assembly
(thanks to Mike Koken) with a top that had stock needles. Dialed fuel
regulator (back to) 5 psi, and ... Ta da!!
Runs like a top! No overflow, no bumps on acceleration, even idle is a
little smoother!
Kewl!
I don't know much about troubleshooting floats and [Gros]jets (other
than visible cracks or holes in floats, or Grosjet ball cracked and/or
wedged), so am thinking I'll see if Scott/ZTherapy will take 'em back and
give 'em an inspection (in case anyone's wondering, I've been VERY happy
with his carbs and his servicing the sale).
Thanks all!
Dan Neff '69 2000
Colorado Springs, CO
www.wycroc.org
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Neff [mailto:neffster189@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 1:58 PM
> To: Roadster Listgroup
> Subject: float bowl overflow Q
>
> I am stumped y'all. Any idea's?
>
> Short version:
> All of a sudden my (SU) float bowls started overflowing on high speed
> downhill decelleration (and gagging and sputtering the engine when resuming
> cruise). I have Ztherapy carbs, and Scott Bruning hasn't a clue. The best
> improvement I've gotten is by putting a fuel line regulator in (with a
> mechanical fuel pump!!?) -- setting it to 2psi eliminates the problem about
> 95% of the time, but am suspicious it might be leaning it out a hair on
> acceleration (6,000rpm+) - getting intermittent 'bumps' in the
> acceleration/-
> power.
> I don't think I've fixed The Problem, just found a workaround. Any idea's
> what the REAL problem is?
> I'm wondering if the Grosjets could be that touchy about fuel pressure,
> except I'd still want an explanation as to why they worked fine for 11
> months!
>
> Long version:
> [When she gets mad about something...]
> Back around the end of June (I'd already put over 5,000 trouble-free miles
>
> on it since a valve/cam job, 10,000 miles since Ztherapy carbs), I seemed to
>
> have gotten a bad tank of gas. Sputtering and spitting off and on.
> Alternator
> seized 400 miles later.
> What's weird is about that time, I swapped my fuel pump into a 1600 to
> determine if 1600's pump was bad. When I put mine back (and replaced alt,
> checked and re-checked connectors), I started having problems with float
> bowl overflow on low-grade downhill decelleration (usually above 40mph)!
> Did plugs, points, rotor, condenser, cap, swapped an old air filter
> (being unemployed I had to draw the line somewhere), swapped plug wires,
> fuel filter, checked floats and Grosjets, and checked with Ztherapy. still
> having problems.
> Last year, my fuel line gas-tank return reed valve was leaking, so I had
> put a "T" in and run a straight line with a restrictor in it back to the
> tank. It's been fine until now. So when overflow started happening, I tried
>
> running without any gas tank return restrictor (leaned it out too much on
> uphill/load). Drilled out restrictor and improved it significantly. Put an
> EI distr'r in, with a 12v coil (which eliminated ballast resistor - a
> suspect
> at that point). Nada. 'Borrowed' a reed valve to go back to stock. Problem
> was worse!
> That's when I tried the fuel line regulator. I'm comfortable daily driving
>
> it at this point, but wouldn't want to take it on a road trip.
>
> thanks,
>
> Dan Neff '69 2000
> Colorado Springs, CO
> www.wycroc.org
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