First, is the gas gauge reading OK? If not, check the instrument regulator
under the dash. If the gas gauge is OK proceed to the next section.
With the ignition switch in the on position, ground the wire going to the
sender. If the gauge goes full scale, you have a bad sender. (Very common)
If not, leave the ground jumper on the sender wire and meter both sides of
the gauge to ground. One side should read around 8 volts (supplied by the
instrument regulator) and the other side should read near zero with the
engine cold. If you read 8 on one side and ground on the other, the gauge
is bad. If you read 8 on both sides, the sender wire is open. If you read
zero on both sides you have lost power to your gauge. BTW, disconnect one
of the primary wires from your coil. If the points happen to be closed and
the key is on for an extended time it can fry the coil.
Temp depends upon the thermostat used. If it is per factory spec it will be
180 degrees. This is a little below half scale on the gauge. These gauges
weren't the most accurate things ever made!
Best regards,
Fred Schroeder
'70 2000
SRL311-13359
TDROC
Home page http://home.texoma.net/~sitsinwest/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: temp gauge problem
> I have no reading on my temp gauge. I'm trying to determine if it's
> the gauge, the sender, or the wire in between.
>
> What should I read on the temp gauge when the car is running, up to
> operating temp? Or, better yet, using my multimeter, putting one
> contact on the sender, which one should I put on the sender (positive
> or negative), where does the other go, and what reading (approx) should
> I see?
>
> Thanks,
> Adam
> '70 1600
> '66 WPL411 on eBay - I have bids! I have bids!
> '66 PL411 sedan, much nicer, not for sale :^)
> Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
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