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GM Alt Conv

To: datsun list <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: GM Alt Conv
From: "milton3" <milton3@pobox.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 01:52:44 -0600
Folks,

I think some of the confusion comes from the fact that folks are using 
different types of alternators.

A GM (i.e., OE for something general motors) alternator is NOT a single 
wire unit.  You must make at least two connections to the alternator.  The 
obvious is the charge line (commonly referred to as the white wire and at 
the very least it should be supplimented due to the increased charging 
potential - don't forget to protect or scrap the ammeter).  

The second which I believe is the source of a lot of confusion on this 
list is:  The field wire.  For an OE application GM alternator you must 
supply the field coils so that the alternator can produce a charge.

Be careful with the field wire.  One might think you could just run it 
from the unswitched power at the battery.  If you do, the roadster won't 
respond when you remove the key - she'll keep right on purring.  
Basically, the circuit will reverse and power the ignition stuff through 
the alternator.  Make sure the line is switched, and you might add a diode 
for good measure.

That said, I believe many of you are using aftermarket alternators sourced 
through outfits like summit or pegasus or JC whitless or ...  It is 
possible to purchase a true single wire alternator.  And, it may be called 
a GM "type" alternator because the outer case dimensions mimick the GM 
units.  But, it is different in that it will either be switched internally 
(such that it pulls a field backward through the charge circuit as it 
starts spinning) or it will have fixed magnets in the case supplying the 
field.

So, to repeat:  for an OE Application GM alternator - you will need to 
make two connections.  The available GM harnesses have 4 leads - 2 are not 
necessary to produce charge.  I recall that the fat wire makes the juice.  
Sorry, but I can't point you directly to the field wire (unless you want 
to talk Bosch conversions).

FWIW, my experience with GM alternators has not been good.  I will admit 
to driving a competition level stereo, A/C and driving lights, but 85A 
should have been plenty.  Even in their OE applications, the late style GM 
alternators die biannually (ask the service techs).  I got tired of 
getting warranty replacements every 4 months and forked over the cash for 
a Bosch alternator.  I only bought 1 and never had to make a warranty 
claim.

Since I want to move the alt to the passenger side of the motor, and I 
have none of the brackets folks have described to accomplish the task, I'm 
planning to just fabricate mounts for a bosch unit.  Cost twice as much 
out of the box, but less than half the headaches.

And, if you are feeling adventuresome.  Some of the older Fords do use 
true single wire alternators if this is what your after.

Good luck,
Milton
Enjoys his tunes

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