Inertia fuel cutoff switches are nice to have too.. kind of like a GFCI
circuit in your bathroom power outlet that cuts off if it gets wet. This
kills the power to the fuel pump if it senses high G in a short burst (car
crash) - also has a reset switch. While the oil pressure safety switch can
save your motor if you have an oil pressure issue, this could save you from
a fiery death in case of a crash.
Kris.
On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 11:18 AM, Mark Sedlack <msedlack@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> Ron,
> If adding an electric pump to a car that didn't have one originally, the
> below information is spot-on:
>
> "Getting power to the pump involves adding a safety oil pressure switch so
> the pump only runs when the ignition is on and the oil pressure is up. This
> is done by installing an oil pressure switch from a Chev Vega (you may also
> need a couple of 1/8" pipe tees and short nipples if you also have an oil
> pressure gauge). These switches are available from most local auto parts
> stores. Three part numbers: NAPA (Echlin brand) p/n OP-6610 or Standard
> brand p/n PS-133 or Delco PS-9. While at the parts store, also get a
> standard sealed-beam headlight 3-prong socket connector. This connector
> fits the new oil pressure safety switch.
>
> The switch has three prongs marked "I", "S" and "P." When there is NO oil
> pressure, the "S" and "P" are connected. When there is oil pressure, the
> "I" and "P" are connected.
>
> The "I" wire is connected to the 12 volt side of the Ignition dropping
> resistor. The "P" wire goes up to the pump. Only one wire need be run from
> the back to the front. It is also a good idea to put a 5 amp fuse in this
> line. The "S" wire goes to the starter solenoid "S" terminal to energize
> the pump during cranking. The negative terminal of the pump is grounded to
> the pick-up tube with a clamp. (see Fig. A side view).
>
>
> How does it work?
>
> In the gauge installation, a wire runs from the pick-up terminal of the
> starter solenoid which is energized only when the key is turned to start
> the motor. The current goes through the normally closed (at rest) contacts
> of the oil pressure switch to the fuel pump (between contact "S" and
> contact "P"). When the engine starts and the oil pressure rises, the switch
> transfers, causing current flow from the ignition switch (contact "I")
> through the transferred switch contacts to the fuel pump (contact "P"). As
> long as oil pressure is maintained and the ignition is on, the pump keeps
> running. This is also an engine protection feature, if oil pressure is lost
> from an oil pump failure, the engine automatically shuts down."
>
>
> I would add one other thing - its better to have the power "P" wire from
> above listed switch trigger a relay that feeds the pump instead of powering
> direct. Some pumps can draw some serious amps. Both my cars are wired
> this way.
>
> Mark Sedlack
> New Franklin, OH
> 66 1600
> http://www.mildevco.net/**chevypowereddatsuns/<http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/>
> 77 280Z
> http://www.mildevco.net/**chevypowereddatsuns/<http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ronnie Day" <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
> To: "Roadster List"
> <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.**net<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>>;
> "510 List" <bluebird510@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 10:41 AM
>
> Subject: [Roadsters] Electric Fuel Pump
>
>
> Anyone have a specific suggestion for an electric fuel pump for the ('70
>> 2000/SU) Roadster. Yes, I know I can go with an OE unit, but they run
>> around $150 so I'm considering using an electric. I know it needs to be
>> around 3 psi.
>>
>> Most of the ones I see with a quick search are high pressure unit for use
>> with newer EFI systems. I seem to rememember Holley and S-W having
>> suitable
>> models. I'll need a pressure switch, too, for the power if I go this
>> route.
>>
>> TIA,
>> Ron
>>
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